City Overview

Tokyo, symbol of the Japanese success story, is a sprawling megalopolis on the Pacific coast of Honshu, the largest island of the Japanese archipelago. In 1590, the city was founded as Edo, the capital of the shoguns, the succession of hereditary absolute rulers of Japan and commander of the Japanese army. Edo boasted its own vibrant culture, the celebrated ‘floating world’ of pleasure quarters, theatres and cherry blossoms, immortalised in the Japanese woodblock prints of the time. Following the fall of the shoguns in 1867 (and the restoration of the power of the Emperor), the city was renamed Tokyo, the Eastern Capital, heralding its rebirth as a dynamic modern city and the showpiece of a rapidly modernising country. Despite the catastrophic 1923 earthquake and near obliteration during World War II, Tokyo was able to rise from the ashes to host the 1964 Olympics and went on to preside over the Japanese economic miracle.

That this bewildering amalgamation of districts and neighbourhoods is able to function as a coherent whole is largely due to the extraordinarily efficient network of rail and underground lines that crisscross and encircle the city. These are Tokyo’s arteries, transporting legions of businesspeople, office workers and students from the suburbs and depositing them in vast stations. Two million people a day pass through Shinjuku Station alone. The towering business districts swarm with soberly dressed corporate warriors and the demure young secretaries known as ‘office flowers’. The architectural anarchy and sheer crush of humanity assaults the senses. Amid the frenzy of consumerism, brash electronics outlets are crammed next to refined upscale boutiques and hordes of giggling schoolgirls swoon over pop idols and the latest fashions in glitzy emporiums.

 

Tokyo enjoys a temperate climate, with warm although sometimes muggy summers and mild, dry winters. The balmy spring days of April to May are the best times to visit the city.

Downtown, old neighbourhoods cluster around antiquated shopping arcades and the clatter of the temple bell echoes across the rooftops. Here, the rhythms of the seasons are still observed. Tokyoites flock to ring in the New Year at the venerable Shinto shrines and springtime brings a flurry of flower-viewing parties and picnics under the cherry blossoms. Rowdy, traditional festivals punctuate the humid summers and the spirit of the old Edo also survives in the neon-bathed entertainment districts: modern-day ‘floating worlds’ of karaoke and cinemas, shot bars and bathhouses. Traditional kabuki theatre thrives alongside opera, ballet and symphonic performances, and Tokyoites are passionate about sumo, baseball and now – in the wake of Japan’s co-hosting of the 2002 World Cup – football. Another obsession, food, is well catered for in this city of 60,000 restaurants and the world’s largest fish market. From bowls of steaming ramen noodles to delicate slices of sashimi, chefs compete to offer the freshest produce, and presentation is elevated to an art form.

 

The focus of Japan’s highly centralised government, business and financial institutions, Tokyo has been hard hit by the country’s continuing recession, bank collapses and financial scandals. Many certainties of the past appear to have been swept away, however, opinions differ widely as to the extent of the damage and what might lie ahead. Surprisingly little of this trepidation will be evident to visitors, as – on the surface, at least – Tokyo and its people remain prosperous and forward-looking.

City Statistics

Location: Kanto region, eastern Japan.
Country dialing code: 81.
Population: 210,000 (city); 12,536,162 (metropolitan area).
Ethnic mix: 97.5% Japanese, 2.5% other.
Religion: 99% Shinto/Buddhist, 1% Christian.
Time zone: GMT + 9.
Electricity: 100 volts AC, 50/60Hz; flat two-pin American-style plugs are standard.
Average January temp: 6°C (42°F).
Average July temp: 26°C (78°F).
Annual rainfall: 1,519mm (60 inches).

Cost of Living

One-litre bottle of mineral water: ¥300
33cl bottle of beer: ¥350
Financial </<B>Times </ newspaper: ¥700
36-exposure colour film: ¥600
City-centre bus ticket: ¥200
Adult football ticket: ¥5,000
Three-course meal with wine/beer: From ¥4,000

100 Japanese Yen (¥100) = £0.48; US$0.84; C$0.99; A$1.18; €0.69
Currency conversion rates as of April 2006

Getting There By Air
Narita International Airport
Airline Name Weekly Flights Book Here Contact Number
Air Canada 28 +81-3-5405-8800
Air New Zealand 14 +81-3-3287-6311 Tokyo, Chiba, Saitama, Kanagawa, (toll-free 0120-300-747 rest of Japan)
ANA 484 (toll-free international +0120-029-333)
Asiana Airlines 56 +81-3-3582-6600 / 6-6229-3939 / 096-312-8801
Austrian 12 +81-3-3597-6100
Lufthansa 26 +81-3-3578-6777
Scandinavian Airlines 14 +81-1-2067-8101
Singapore Airlines 54 +81-3-3213-3431
SWISS 12
Thai Airways International 42 +81-3-3503-3311
United 196 (toll-free within Japan +1-2011-4466) +81-3-3817-4411
Total Weekly Flights 938

 

Narita Airport (NRT)
Tel: (0476) 322 802. Fax: (0476) 301 571.

Narita Airport (also known as New Tokyo International Airport) is located 66km (41 miles) east of central Tokyo and is the main gateway to Japan, with 47 airlines operating out of its two terminals. The airport is for international flights only; all domestic flights use Haneda Airport (see below).

Major airline: ANA(NH), (tel: (03) 5435 0333), a member of the Star Alliance network, is Japan’s main international airline. Other Star Alliance network member airlines serving Tokyo are: Air Canada (AC), Air New Zealand (NZ), Asiana Airlines (OZ), Austrian (OS), Lufthansa (LH), Scandinavian Airlines (SK), Singapore Airlines (SQ), SWISS (LX), Thai Airways International (TG), United (UA) and VARIG (RG).

Approximate flight times to Tokyo: From London is 11 hours 40 minutes; from New York is 14 hours; from Los Angeles is 11 hours 40 minutes; from Toronto (via Chicago) is 14 hours 30 minutes and from Sydney is 9 hours 30 minutes.

Airport facilities: These include bureaux de change, ATMs, travel agent, tourist information, numerous restaurants and souvenir shops (including duty-free shopping), left-luggage service, luggage delivery service, showers and day rooms, clinic, post office and car hire (Avis and Hertz).

Business facilities: Copy and fax facilities are available in terminal one at TEI Lounge (tel: (0476) 329 450). Terminal two has a Kinko’s business centre (tel: (0476) 301 321).

Arrival/departure tax: There is no arrival tax. The departure tax of ¥2040 is included in the airfare.

Transport to the city: Japan Railway’s Narita Express and Keisei Railway’s Skyliner provide fast, very frequent services to the city centre 0600-2200. In addition, both companies run cheaper regular services. The journey time is 60-90 minutes and tickets cost ¥1000-3000, depending on the type of train and destination within Tokyo. Airport Limousine buses (tel: (03) 3665 7220) run several times an hour 0700-2200, serving major hotels in central Tokyo, Haneda Airport and Yokohama. The journey time, depending on traffic and destination, is about 90 minutes and tickets cost approximately ¥3000. Taxis to the city centre are notoriously expensive, costing about ¥25,000. The journey time is about 90 minutes, depending on traffic.

Haneda Airport (HND)
Tel: (03) 5757 8111.

Haneda, Tokyo’s domestic airport, is conveniently located 16km (ten miles) south of central Tokyo.

Major airlines: ANA (NH), a member of the Star Alliance network,(tel: (03) 3490 8800) also serves Haneda Airport.

Airport facilities: Facilities include ATMs, travel agent, numerous restaurants and souvenir shops, left-luggage service, luggage delivery service, post office and car hire (Nissan and Toyota).

Business facilities: None.

Arrival/departure tax: There is no arrival or departure tax.

Transport to the city: A monorail connects the airport to Hamamatsu-cho Station on the JR Yamanote loop line. The journey time is 20 minutes and tickets cost ¥470. The Keihin railway runs to Shinagawa Station on the JR Yamanote loop line and other stations in the centre of the city. Limousine buses run to major Tokyo railway stations. Tickets cost approximately ¥900. Taxis to central Tokyo cost approximately ¥7000.

Getting Around

Public Transport
Tokyo has one of the most sophisticated and efficient public transport systems in the world – a combination of an extensive train network operated by a number of private companies, 12 underground lines, bus services and several monorails. However, the service does not operate 24 hours. Nevertheless, there are many 24-hour pubs and cafés in the city and waiting for the trains to start running in the early morning is a long established tradition among the revellers wishing to avoid ruinously expensive night-time taxi fares. The Tokyo Tourist Information Office (tel: (03) 3201 3331) can provide detailed service and timetable information for all the different service providers.

The complexity of the network and the sheer size of some of the stations can be rather daunting. However, public transport is very safe, even after dark, and staff and passers-by are generally quick to help confused foreigners. Despite very frequent services, trains are uncomfortably crowded during rush hours (0730–0900 and 1700–1900); trains run from approximately 0500–2400/0100. Tickets are available for purchase from vending machines located inside stations; most journeys within the centre of the city cost less than ¥200.

The Tokyo Combination Ticket (Tokyo Free Kippu) is a travel pass valid for one day on all Japan Rail, underground and bus services within the city and costs ¥1580. The One-Day Open Ticket is valid on eight of the 12 underground lines and costs ¥710.

Taxis
Tokyo’s taxis are numerous and easily can be hailed on the street or found at taxi ranks. It is also possible for one to reserve a taxi in advance, from one of the many companies, such as Nihon Kotsu (tel: (03) 3586 2151) and Checker-Musen (tel: (03) 3573 3751). Approximately ¥500 will be charged for this service. Fares vary slightly between taxi companies but are uniformly expensive at around ¥660 for the first two kilometres (one mile), then ¥80 every 274m (900ft) thereafter. There is a 30% supplement after 2300. Tipping is not customary and could offend.

Taxi drivers are very professional but rarely speak English, so it is advisable for tourists to have their destination written out in Japanese or to be able to point to it on a Japanese map. During rush hour, it is often quicker to take the train. Unoccupied taxis become scarce at around 0100, once the train services have finished. A peculiarity of all Japanese taxis is that the rear doors are operated automatically by the driver – visitors should not try to open or close the doors themselves.

Limousines
Hinomaru Limousine (tel: (03) 3505 1717) offers a variety of luxury cars and can provide English-speaking drivers. Rates are from ¥6000 per hour, for a minimum of three hours.

Driving in the City
Tokyo’s public transport network and taxis are excellent and driving in the city is therefore not advised. Traffic is heavy, navigation is greatly complicated by the fact that streets rarely have names and parking is expensive and difficult to find.

Car Hire
The biggest car hire company, with 150 branches in the Tokyo area, is Nippon Rent-A-Car, 5–5 Kamiyamacho, Shibuya-ku (tel: (03) 3485 7196). Other companies include Avis, 3–13–19 Ginza, Chuo-ku (tel: (03) 5550 1011) and Hertz, 1–8–21 Shiba Koen, Minato-ku (tel: (03) 5401 7651).

Car hire in Japan costs from ¥5000 per day for the smallest class of car. Basic insurance is usually included in the price. Both a national driving licence and an International Driving Permit are required. Drivers must have held their licence for at least a year and the minimum age for hiring a car varies between 19 and 26, although is usually 21 years.

Bicycle & Scooter Hire
SCS, 2–1–16 Hakusan, Bunkyo-ku (tel: (03) 3827 5432), arranges scooter hire from ¥5000 per day. Bicycles often can be hired at suburban train stations for around ¥1000 per day. However, train stations in the central areas of the city do not offer this service.

Business

Business Profile
Presiding over the world’s second largest economy, Tokyo is the governmental, financial and administrative centre of Japan. Quick to embrace modern developments and fashions, following the 1868 Meiji Restoration, Tokyo has continued to be at the forefront of trends and technology and remains the country’s most cosmopolitan city. Japan’s current drive towards economic reform and deregulation was initiated in Tokyo and it is here that these measures are having their most immediate effect. Unemployment in the city, at 4.8%, is well below the country’s 5.3% average, while per capita income is over 40% higher than in other parts of the country. The service industry is the key employer in the city, followed by construction.

Most major Japanese companies have their head office in Tokyo and for foreign companies a presence in Japan generally means a presence in Tokyo. Companies in the city include Barclays Bank, Bloomberg, British Aerospace, Citibank, Hewlett Packard, IBM, Kellogg’s, Microsoft, Reuters and Unilever. The main business districts are clustered around the National Diet and Ministry buildings to the south and east of the Imperial Palace. The Metropolitan Government is located in West Shinjuku, Tokyo’s skyscraper office district.

In addition to the emphasis on the service industries and administration, Tokyo is Japan’s publishing and printing centre. Meanwhile, the busy Tokyo Bay port handles a high proportion of the country’s imports and exports. Recent deregulation has eased market entry for foreign companies and increasing numbers are now entering the Japanese market. The Nippon Convention Centre, Makuhari Messe, situated halfway between the city centre and Narita Airport, and the new Tokyo Big Sight complex, in Tokyo Bay, make Tokyo Japan’s major trade fair venue.

After a slow start, the Internet is now increasingly important to Japanese businesses. Hotel rooms are usually equipped with a telephone line supporting Internet use and international public telephones are equipped with modem jacks.

Business Etiquette
While Tokyoites are generally the most cosmopolitan of Japanese, many will be reserved in the company of foreigners, particularly when called upon to speak English. Whereas almost everyone under 50 has some basic knowledge of English, very few are able to speak fluently. Misunderstandings can easily occur and the use of professional interpreters is advised. Foreigners are not expected to understand the complexities of Japanese etiquette and allowances will be made cheerfully. However, it is worth bearing in mind that shoes must be removed upon entering homes, as well as some offices and restaurants. Also, tips are never expected – the practice is considered vulgar, as is eating while walking. Blowing one’s nose in public should also be avoided (it is, however, perfectly acceptable to sniff). Business clothes should be smart but conservative, with suits a must for both men and women. For men, grey and navy are the favoured colours – brown is looked upon with suspicion. It is probably impossible to be over dressed in Japan and business visitors can expect to be judged by their appearance. Business cards are an essential part of introductions – no one can expect to be taken seriously without them.

Corporate entertaining is done mainly in restaurants and ‘izakaya’ beer halls. Invitations to the homes of business associates are unusual. Drinking (beer, whisky and sake) is very much part of the culture, as is smoking. Corporate entertaining remains largely male dominated and business travellers’ partners are rarely invited to such events. For the most part, foreign buisnesswomen tend to be treated as ‘honorary men’ and it is not unknown for them to be taken to strip clubs. There are remarkably few Japanese businesswomen. Gifts are very important – they need not be particularly large or lavish – and are exchanged with great ceremony.

It is usual to refer to colleagues by their surnames and hierarchies should be respected. Business negotiations may require patience as directness is mistrusted and disliked, thus straight ‘yes’ or ‘no’ answers are generally avoided. Impatience is frowned upon and confrontation is out of the question, as it is considered a sign of gross weakness. Apologies and thanks are very important and should not be rushed. Normal business hours are 0900–1700 Monday to Friday.

Hotels

Hotel accommodation is subject to Japan’s consumption tax, which currently stands at 5% and is added to the final bill. The Tokyo Metropolitan Government levies a tax on hotel rooms costing over ¥10,000, at a rate of ¥100 per person per night on rooms costing between ¥10,000 and ¥14,999, and ¥200 per person per night on rooms costing ¥15,000 or more. Luxury hotels also add a 10–15% service charge to hotel bills. Tipping is not customary and might offend.

The prices quoted below are the lowest standard rates for a double room, excluding breakfast and excluding consumption tax and service charges, unless otherwise specified.

Business

Hotel New Otani
A modern mega-hotel towering over the vibrant Akasaka government and entertainment district, the stylish New Otani’s outstanding feature is its historic four-hectare (ten-acre) Japanese garden complete with waterfall, dining pavilions, tennis courts and an open-air swimming pool. The hotel is an enormously popular venue for everything from society weddings to large-scale conferences and international summits, and regularly welcomes celebrities. The recently refurbished rooms boast high-speed Internet access. During peak periods, the shopping arcades, lounges and spacious lobby are extremely busy, although the traditional teahouse and New Otani Art Museum offer tranquil alternatives. Particularly notable among the three dozen restaurants are La Tour d’Argent, Trader Vic’s and The Bar, which offers panoramic views from the 40th floor.

4–1 Kioi-cho, Chiyoda-ku
Tel: (03) 3265 1111. Fax: (03) 3221 2619.
Price: From ¥36,000.

Hotel Nikko Tokyo
The spectacular curved edifice of this brand new ‘urban resort hotel’ is located in Tokyo’s up-and-coming waterfront area, close to the Tokyo Big Sight international exhibition centre and only 15 minutes from the city’s main business districts. Each guest room has a private balcony overlooking the bay and telephone with modem point, while sophisticated rooftop suites boast private gardens and Jacuzzis. An impressive and memorable venue for functions and conferences, the sumptuous banquet halls offer panoramic sea views, as do the impressive Zen Health Spa, the continental-style Terrace Restaurant and the nautically themed Captain’s Bar. The hotel’s contemporary design features pale colours, natural materials and works of art. The spacious, airy feel and excellent service make it a fine choice for those not requiring a city centre location.

1–9–1 Daiba, Minato-ku
Tel: (03) 5500 5500. Fax: (03) 5500 2525.
Price: From ¥33,000.

Imperial Hotel
The grande dame of Tokyo’s international hotels, the Imperial’s impeccable service and excellent location between Hibiya and Ginza ensure its continued position among the capital’s most prestigious addresses. The Old Imperial Bar dates from the 1922 Frank Lloyd Wright building, although today the hotel is a modern 31-storey edifice with over 1000 rooms, each equipped with three telephone, fax and computer-compatible lines, plus a health club, extensive conference facilities and an executive business centre. The vast, lively lobby is a popular meeting place for businesspeople and ‘ladies who lunch’. Numerous fine restaurants include the renowned Les Saisons. The hotel’s shopping arcade is a favourite with visitors, as is the traditional Japanese tea ceremony room.

1–1–1 Uchisaiwai-cho, Chiyoda-ku
Tel: (03) 3504 1111. Fax: (03) 3581 9146.
Price: From ¥39,000.

Keio Plaza Inter-Continental Tokyo
The two towers of this 47-storey hotel overlook the Nishi-Shinjuku business and shopping area, affording breathtaking views of the surrounding cityscape. The white and gold lobby impresses and 40 function rooms, with a capacity of up to 1800 delegates, put the hotel firmly on the conference and convention map. A rooftop swimming pool, private high-tech karaoke rooms and comprehensive business and computer facilities are further attractions. The comfortable rooms are equipped with video on demand, two telephone lines and modem points. The 45th floor Pole Star Bar offers stunning nightscapes, while two dozen restaurants serve Japanese, Chinese, French and Italian cuisine.

2–2–1, Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku
Tel: (03) 3344 0111. Fax: (03) 3345 8269.
Price: From ¥24,000.

Luxury

Four Seasons Hotel Chinzan-so
Surrounded by extensive gardens of timeless beauty, this distinguished modern hotel in the suburb of Mejiro is a wonderful retreat from Tokyo’s stresses and, unsurprisingly, a firm favourite with dignitaries and international celebrities. High-tech facilities make it a popular conference venue, while the gardens, with their pagoda and summer fireflies, are coveted for upscale weddings and functions. The opulent decor and furnishings reflect a sophisticated blend of influences, while recreational facilities include a hot spa and glamorous swimming pool. The guest rooms are among Tokyo’s largest and several suites have private garden patios. The hotel’s acclaimed restaurants serve a variety of cuisines and the two elegant lounges are perfect for cocktails or afternoon tea.

2–10–8 Sekiguchi, Bunkyo-ku
Tel: (03) 3943 2222. Fax: (03) 3943 2300.
Price: From ¥41,000.

Park Hyatt Tokyo
The almost decadent luxury of this stunning hotel has quickly established it as Tokyo’s most impressive address for both business and pleasure. Located in one of West Shinjuku’s most impressive buildings – a towering 52-storey edifice – the host of remarkable facilities include international video-conferencing, a superb health club and extensive private library and art collection. Spacious guest rooms feature oversized bathrooms and personal entertainment centres with large windows providing stunning views of distant Mount Fuji or the Meiji Shrine. The renowned New York Bar & Grill and the lively Girandole brasserie are both top-class dining options, while the sumptuous breakfast buffet offers a chance to glimpse numerous famous faces.

3–7–1–2 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku
Tel: (03) 5322 1234. Fax: (03) 5322 1288.
Price: From ¥52,000.

Moderate

Hotel Tateshina
This well-priced yet superior business hotel is conveniently located near the corporate and transport hub of Shinjuku and the beautiful Shinjuku Gyoen Park. The small Western- and Japanese-style rooms are all en suite and equipped with a desk, telephone, TV and hairdryer. The reception desk offers photocopying, fax and word-processing services, while the hotel’s conference and banquet room seats 30 people and is available at reasonable prices. Some English is spoken and foreign guests are most welcome. The hotel’s small restaurant, Noboru, serves American- and Japanese-style breakfast for ¥800, as well as a Japanese lunch and dinner menu.

5–8–6 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku
Tel: (03) 3350 5271. Fax: (03) 3350 5275.
Price: From ¥11,000.

Shibuya Business Hotel
In a city with notoriously little affordable central accommodation, this conveniently located hotel represents a bargain, despite its lack of facilities and small rooms. A two-minute walk from Shibuya Station, situated in a quiet back street, the efficient receptionists welcome foreign guests, therefore minimising the language barrier problem. The rooms, each with a tiny unit bathroom, are cramped but nevertheless functional, clean and equipped with TV, telephone and hairdryer. There is a small breakfast room, a drinks vending machine and the reception offers a photocopying and fax service. The stylish Chinese restaurant, Tenchu Saikan, occupies the hotel’s basement and is popular with guests.

1–12–5 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku
Tel: (03) 3409 9300. Fax: (03) 3409 9378.
Price: From ¥8600 (excluding breakfast).

Other Recommendations

Radisson Hotel Narita Airport
With Tokyo’s Narita Airport a two-hour journey from the city centre, this large, modern airport hotel is an excellent choice for arriving and departing visitors. Located 20 minutes by complimentary shuttle bus from the airport, it offers both Japanese- and Western-style rooms, many of which look onto the hotel’s beautiful and extensive gardens, giving the complex something of a resort feel. Impressive executive and recreational facilities include a business centre and meeting rooms, a gym, tennis courts, sauna and two swimming pools. In addition, there is easy access to historic Narita-san temple and nearby shopping areas.

650–35 Nanae, Tomisato-machi, Inba-gun, Chiba
Tel: (0476) 931 234. Fax: (0476) 934 834.
Price: From ¥16,500.

Sawanoya Ryokan
Budget-minded visitors wishing to experience something of traditional Japanese culture should consider staying at this old-style Japanese inn (ryokan), located in a residential neighbourhood near Ueno Park. Guests sleep on futons in tatami rooms and can enjoy a traditional hot bath and Japanese breakfast. The inn is family-run and the hospitable English-speaking owners are eager to make guests feel at home and help them get the most from their stay. Each room has a TV and free Internet access is available in the lobby. Sawanoya is a popular member of the Japanese Inn Group and reservations should be made well in advance.

2–3–11, Yanaka, Taito-ku
Tel: (03) 3822 2251. Fax: (03) 3822 2252.
Price: From ¥8800 (excluding breakfast).

Restaurants

The selected restaurants have been divided into five categories: Gastronomic, Business, Trendy, Budget and Personal Recommendations. The restaurants are listed alphabetically within these different categories, which serve as guidelines rather than absolute definitions of the establishments.

A 5% consumer tax is added to restaurant bills and luxury restaurants may also add a 10–15% service charge. Tipping is not customary and might offend.

The prices quoted below are for an average three-course meal for one person and a bottle of house wine or cheapest equivalent; they include VAT but do not include tip.

Gastronomic

Hai Whan
Located in the upscale Ginza district, Hai Whan serves progressive Cantonese haute cuisine in grand surroundings reminiscent of an imperial banquet hall. The emphasis is on seafood and the chefs pride themselves on the freshness of their ingredients, which range seasonally from abalone to lobster, sea bream or crab. Unusual seasonings are incorporated into many dishes and the Chinese-style sashimi is a surprising and delicious addition to the menu.

World Town Building, 5–8–17 Ginza, Chuo-ku
Tel: (03) 3573 0080.
Price: ¥15,000. Wine: ¥6000.

La Tour d’Argent
Considered by many to offer the very finest French dining in Japan, this Akasaka branch of the celebrated Parisian restaurant serves classic cuisine in a dramatic setting of period opulence. The wine list is renowned for its selection and quality and the seasonally based menu typically features carpaccio with caviar, roast pigeon with fresh truffles or the restaurant’s renowned roast duckling.

New Otani Hotel, 4–1 Kioi-cho, Chiyoda-ku
Tel: (03) 3239 3111. Fax: (03) 3221 2619.
Price: ¥20,000. Wine: ¥9000.

Nobu
Amid the stylish decor of artworks, exposed brickwork and giant pink rose emblems, the ‘New Japanese Cuisine’ of celebrated chef Nobu Matsuhisa has arrived in Tokyo’s upscale Aoyama district. Nobu’s masterful blending of traditional Japanese ingredients with New World flavours results in exquisite signature dishes such as black cod with miso, squid in light garlic sauce and the renowned ‘new-style sashimi’. For a culinary adventure, the omakase course (chef’s tasting menu) is recommended.

6–10–17 Minami-aoyama, Minato-ku
Tel: (03) 5467 0022. Fax: (03) 5467 0023.
Price: ¥15,000. Wine: ¥6000.

Spago
Wolfgang Puck’s Spago is one of the originators of New American cuisine and the Tokyo branch will not disappoint. The atmosphere is classic Californian – bright and airy with a cheerful terrace of flowers. In addition to the renowned gourmet pizzas, imaginative entrées, such as prime rib steak with jalapeño garlic gravy sauce, are excellent, as are the Californian wines.

5–7–8 Roppongi, Minato-ku
Tel: (03) 3423 4025. Fax: (03) 3403 1726.
Price: ¥7000. Wine: ¥4000.

Takamura
Serving kaiseki (Japan’s haute cuisine and an art form in itself), Takamura creates a traditional Japanese dining experience never to be forgotten. Seated in one of eight serene tatami rooms overlooking Japanese gardens, guests are presented with a succession of intricately prepared dishes, such as delicate slices of sashimi or quails eggs, each item seasonal and exquisitely displayed on the finest of Japanese ceramics. Takamura is located on a wooded hill and seems a world away from the bustling city below. Advanced reservations are required.

3–4–27 Roppongi, Minato-ku
Tel: (03) 3585 6600.
Price: ¥25,000.

Business

Les Saisons
Long renowned as the top formal French restaurant in Tokyo, the award-winning Les Saisons is conveniently located in the Imperial Hotel. The elegant opulence of the Provençal-style surroundings is extremely inviting and the seasonal menu features classic dishes such as steak with foie gras, bouillabaisse (fish soup) and cider-roasted lobster. The restaurant is rumoured to be Tokyo’s ultimate location for elite political and business ‘power breakfasts’.

Imperial Hotel, 1–1–1 Uchisaiwaicho, Chiyoda-ku
Tel: (03) 3539 8087. Fax: (03) 3581 9146.
Price: ¥20,000. Wine: ¥6000.

Miyuki
The Japanese restaurant of Tokyo’s top class Four Seasons Hotel, Miyuki specialises in kaiseki, its multiple courses creating the most formal and exquisitely presented of Japanese dining experiences. In addition, the restaurant offers teppanyaki, sushi, tempura and shabu shabu menus. The decor is elegantly Japanese and kimono-clad staff present each course on a selection of fine Japanese ceramics. Lunch sets are from ¥5000.

Four Seasons Hotel, 2–10–8 Sekiguchi, Bunkyo-ku
Tel: (03) 3943 2222. Fax: (03) 3943 2300.
Price: ¥12,000. Wine: ¥4500.

New York Grill
An oasis of sophistication on the 52nd floor of Shinjuku’s Park Hyatt Hotel, just securing reservations for this award-winning restaurant will impress any Tokyo client. Floor-to-ceiling windows provide magnificent views and the vibrant, contemporary design features bold artworks and an open kitchen. The cuisine is creative American and the honey-glazed rotisserie duck and prime Japanese steaks are particularly notable. Naturally, the Californian wine list is first class and the service impeccable. There is an excellent weekend brunch buffet (¥5800) and the adjacent New York Bar features live jazz.

Park Hyatt Hotel, 52F, 3–7–1–2 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku
Tel: (03) 5323 3458. Fax: (03) 5322 1288.
Price: ¥18,000. Wine: ¥6000.

Sabatini di Firenze
This stylish Ginza restaurant is known as one of Tokyo’s finest Italian dinner venues. Amid surroundings reminiscent of a grand country villa, freshly made pasta cooked to perfection compliments dishes such as grilled sea bass. The dessert trolley is bursting with temptation and the wine list, featuring an extensive selection of Italian and French wines, rounds off the experience. Set lunch menus start at ¥4500.

Sony Building 7F, 5–3–1 Ginza, Chuo-ku
Tel: (03) 3573 0013.
Price: ¥15,000. Wine: ¥5000.

Teppanyaki Asuka
A favourite for less formal business occasions, the Palace Hotel’s teppanyaki restaurant showcases the considerable skills of the chef, as he cooks each meal to order. Guests sit at a crescent-shaped counter and choose from a menu encompassing everything from abalone, prawns and seasonal fish to Kobe beefsteak with Madeira sauce, all accompanied by soup, salad, rice and kimchee pickles. Guests may also enjoy cooking for themselves at private tables.

Palace Hotel Tokyo, BF1, 1–1–1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku
Tel: (03) 3211 5211. Fax: (03) 3211 6987.
Price: ¥6000. Wine: ¥5000.

Trendy

Daidaiya
This upscale Ginza restaurant, serving nouvelle cuisine Japonaise, is a treat for the eyes as well as the palate. Theatrical lighting and dramatic avant-garde decor accentuate the succession of unique dining spaces, ranging from rooms to counters and tatami areas, plus a cigar bar. The Japanese menu with a twist includes grilled meats and seafood with delicate sauces and excellent sushi and tempura. Set menus are from ¥4500. Daidaiya has branches in Shinjuku and Akasaka.

GinzaNine No 1 Building, 2F, 8–5 Saki, Ginza-nishi, Chuo-ku
Tel: (03) 5537 3566. Fax: (03) 5537 3570.
Price: ¥6000. Wine: ¥3500.

Branches:
Shinjuku Nowa Building 3F, 3–37–12 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku
Bellvie Akasaka 9F, 3–1–6 Akasaka, Minato-ku

Fujimamas
Asian fusion is the ‘in thing’ in Tokyo dining and trendy Fujimamas is riding the crest of the wave. This Harajuku restaurant, bar and café has a warm, comfortable atmosphere, wooden verandah and rustic-style decor with a stylish twist. Among the dishes offering a unique take on world cuisine are grilled chilli-marinated pork loin with tomato chutney and sweet potato fries, and crispy tofu steak with Indonesian cucumber sambal. A fine selection of Californian wines rounds off a great meal.

6–3–2 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku
Tel: (03) 5485 2262. Fax: (03) 5485 2261.
Price: ¥3500. Wine: ¥3000.

Immigrant’s Café
Located in trendy Aoyama, this funky café-bar invites guests to ‘experience the world’ through its Asian fusion menu. Dishes range from clam chowder to Thai fish balls but it is the unusual decor – colourful retro with an industrial edge – that makes the place stand out. A DJ booth, video graphics and lively bilingual staff add the finishing touches to a fun venue. Vegetarian friendly.

Kyodo Building B1, 5–9–15 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku
Tel: (03) 5766 8995. Fax: (03) 5766 8996.
Price: ¥2000. Wine: ¥2500.

The Pink Cow
The Pink Cow is a wine bar that is fast becoming a star on Harajuku’s trendy café scene. The atmosphere is colourful and relaxed, with funky furnishings and a maze of rooms hung with the work of local artists. The list of Californian wines is excellent and the vegetarian friendly home-style cooking – from burritos and bagels to fudge brownies – is an added bonus. The weekend dinner buffet is ¥2500.

1–10–1 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku
Tel: (03) 5411 6777.
Price: ¥2500. Wine: ¥2500.

TY Harbour Brewery Restaurant and Bar
This large, stylish microbrewery on the Tennozu Isle area of Tokyo Bay offers harbour views and excellent food in addition to a wide variety of fine beers and wines. Californian-style dishes include roasted whitefish with crispy spring roll and light tomato sauce or beer marinated chicken with thyme and garlic. The flower-filled terrace is the perfect place to enjoy the daily lunch specials and weekend brunch menu.

2–1–3 Higashi-Shinagawa, Shinagawa-ku
Tel: (03) 5479 4555. Fax: (03) 5479 1696.
Price: ¥4500. Wine: ¥3000.

Budget

Jangara Ramen
Two minutes from Harajuku Station, an enthusiastic clientele means long peak-time queues. But the bowls of steaming Japanese noodles are well worth the wait. Cheerful staff dish out the standard Jangara or richer Bonchan with meat, fish and egg added according to choice. Jazz music and quirky artwork add to the colourful atmosphere.

Shanzel Building No. 2 1F/2F, 1–13–21 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku
Tel: (03) 3404 5405.
Price: ¥1000. Beer and sake by the glass: From ¥500.

MealMUJI
Just across the railway tracks from the Tokyo International Forum, this bright, spacious café extends the MUJI lifestyle brand to food. Focusing on organic, preservative-free ingredients, the freshly baked breads and 25 deli choices, such as curries, grilled fish and seasonal salads, attract a relaxed, youthful crowd.

3–8–3 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku
Tel: (03) 5208 8241.
Price: ¥1200. Wine: ¥400 (by the glass).

Moti
Located in the Roppongi nightlife district, Moti has been serving Tokyoites with authentic Indian food for two decades. Vegetable curries such as palak panir and channa masala offer a haven for vegetarians, while meat eaters will enjoy specialities such as Punjabi chicken tikka and mutton kofta. Mughal-style arches and murals give an exotic feel to the decor. Lunch specials are just ¥900. Moti also has a branch in Akasaka.

Roppongi Hama Building 3F, 6–2–35 Roppongi, Minato-ku
Tel: (03) 3479 1939.
Price: ¥3000. Wine: ¥2000.

Branch:
Kinpa Building 3F, 2–14–31 Akasaka, Minato-ku

Phothai Down Under
This bustling, down-to-earth Thai restaurant is a great place to fill up before hitting the Roppongi nightspots. The extensive menu covers all the favourites, from tomyam noodles to beef coconut curry, plus a selection of Australian wines, beers and, somewhat bizarrely, steaks. The tasty lunch buffet (weekdays only) is popular with local office workers and excellent value at ¥1000.

Roppongi Five Plaza Building 2F, 5–18–21 Roppongi, Minato-ku
Tel: (03) 3505 1504. Fax: (03) 3443 7258.
Price: ¥3500. Wine: ¥2500.

Tengu
This cheap and cheerful chain of Japanese-style pubs (izakaya) is popular with students and office workers. It offers a wide range of snack foods, such as yakitori grilled chicken and sashimi fish, plus Japanese interpretations of salads and pizza, washed down with reasonably priced beer and sake. Guests can order as little or as much as they want from the convenient picture menu, and the many branches are easily recognised from the red, long-nosed demon mask emblem.

Ginza Roku-chome Branch, 6–13–3 Ginza, Chuo-ku
Tel: (03) 3248 2588.
Price: ¥1500. Wine: ¥1000.

Personal Recommendations

Angkor Wat
Just south of Shinjuku, this Cambodian restaurant’s extensive menu of tasty dishes, such as beef chilli curry and tangy shredded chicken salad means that it has been doing a roaring trade for 20 years. The pumpkin cake and coconut ice cream is not to be missed. If the Japanese-only menu is too overwhelming, there are a variety of set meals, starting from ¥1000. Colourful travel posters and lively Cambodian staff liven up the no-frills atmosphere.

Juken Building 1F, 1–38–13 Yoyogi, Shibuya-ku
Tel: (03) 3370 3019. Fax: (03) 3379 0306.
Price: ¥2000. Wine: 2500.

Heiroku Sushi
A landmark in the Omotesando fashion district, this bright and cheery chain sushi restaurant is easy and fun – customers take whatever and as much as they want and pay at the end according to their number of empty plates. A steady stream of customers means that the sushi, ranging from tuna belly and salmon to sea urchin, is always freshly made. Crab mayonnaise, egg and cucumber rolls are also available for more timid pallets. Hot green tea and pickled garlic are free.

5–8–5 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku
Tel: (03) 3498 3968.
Price: From ¥120 (per dish). Bottled beer: From ¥600.

Nanbantei Yakitori
The concept of yakitori (grilled chicken pieces served on skewers) is extended to a variety of other meats, seafood and seasonal vegetables at this popular traditional-style restaurant in busy Shibuya. Specialities include beef grilled in a tasty miso sauce (nanban-yaki), and pork and asparagus rolls (aspara-maki). The counter seats allow diners to watch their orders being prepared. Nanbantei has branches in Roppongi and throughout the city. Set menus start at ¥3500.

Iwamoto Building 2F, 1–22–7 Jinnan, Shibuya-ku
Tel: (03) 3461 2913. Fax: (03) 3461 2913.
Price: ¥3000. Wine: ¥2500.

Branch:
4–5–6 Roppongi, Minato-ku

Mominoki House
This Harajuku ‘food concept house’ is often billed as vegan but rather offers healthy, organic dishes, such as grilled tofu burgers or spinach and white radish salad, amid a menu also featuring fish and meat. Nevertheless, it is a welcome find for vegetarians and Paul McCartney is rumoured to have dropped by. The atmosphere is relaxed and youthful, with a variety of seating arrangements on several levels.

You Building 1F, 2–18–5 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku
Tel: (03) 3405 9144.
Price: ¥3000. Wine: ¥2500.

World Buffet L’Etoile
One of a host of restaurants in Shimbashi’s Dai Ichi Hotel, L’Etoile offers sumptuous ‘all you can eat’ lunch and dinner buffets of specialities from around the world, served in a pleasant conservatory-style atmosphere. From sushi and dim sum to smoked salmon roulade, three cheese ravioli and a wide range of cakes, ice cream and sherbets, the enormous selection ensures guests leave satisfied. The all-inclusive price, slightly higher on weekends and during holidays, is discounted for children.

Dai Ichi Hotel Tokyo, 1–2–6 Shimbashi, Minato-ku
Tel: (03) 3501 4411.
Price: ¥2700 (lunch), ¥5200 (dinner). Wine: ¥4000.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview
Tokyo has few specific sights of renown. Instead, the main attraction is the opportunity to experience the life of a city that is on the surface so similar to Western cities, yet at the heart so profoundly unfamiliar. There is no main square, no central landmark or prime focus for tourists, as Tokyo is a collection of distinct areas, a conglomeration of mini-cities.

Ginza’s classy boulevards and emporiums cater to the prominent and wealthy; Shinjuku, a hive of office workers by day, reinvents itself as a neon-lit entertainment wonderland at dusk; Shibuya and Harajuku offer trendy shopping, sports grounds and fine parks. Meanwhile, in the old neighbourhoods around Ueno and Asakusa, among the small houses and shops, potted plants and roadside shrines, life continues much as it has for decades. Ginza’s glitzy department stores lie less than two kilometres (one mile) from the Pacific Ocean but, curiously, Tokyo gives little feeling of being on the coast. The rapidly developing waterfront rewards the visitor with a different perspective, while an evening stroll through the bustling entertainment areas reveals yet another side to this chameleon city.

Tokyo is many things – a maelstrom of rampant consumerism and oases of serenity, sensory overload and subtle beauty in detail. It’s a city rushing into the future but haunted by the past. Most of all, Tokyo is a city that works.

Tourist Information
Tokyo Tourist Information Center (TIC)
Tenth Floor, Tokyo Kotsu Kaikan Building, 2–10–1 Yurakucho, Chiyoda-ku
Tel: (03) 3201 3331 or 3201 2911 (24-hour recorded information). Fax: (03) 3201 3347.
Opening hours: Mon–Fri 0900–1700, Sat 0900–1200.

Passes
There are no sightseeing passes in Tokyo.

Key Attractions

Sensoji Temple, Asakusa
Tokyo’s most revered Buddhist temple and a site of pilgrimage and tourism for many centuries, Sensoji Temple, was founded in AD628, to enshrine a gold statuette of the Kannon Bodhisattva (the Goddess of Mercy). The temple and its five-storey pagoda are concrete reconstructions but the temple precincts are nevertheless always bustling with worshippers. Smoke from the huge incense burner in front of the temple is said to have healing powers. The impressive Kaminarimon (Thunder Gate) is famous for its enormous red paper lantern and fearsome guardian statues, while the temple approach is lined with shops selling traditional sweets and souvenirs. This area was the centre of Shitamachi (downtown) during the Edo period and the streets, shops and restaurants surrounding the temple still preserve something of the flavour of old Edo. The great Sanja festival takes place annually in Asakusa on the third weekend in May. Over one hundred mikoshi (portable shrines) are paraded through the streets, accompanied by great celebration and huge crowds.

2–3–1 Asakusa, Taito-ku
Tel: (03) 3842 5566 (Asakusa Cultural and Sightseeing Centre).
Transport: Asakusa Station, eastern terminus of Ginza underground line.
Opening hours: Daily 0600–1700.
Admission: Free.

Tokyo Tocho (Tokyo Metropolitan Government Offices)
Located in bustling Shinjuku, the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Offices are notable both for their extraordinary architecture and the splendid free observation decks on the 45th floor. Designed by Kenzo Tange, one of Japan’s top architects, the monumental twin towers are said to be inspired by Notre Dame, although the imposing granite façade rather brings to mind scenes of Batman’s Gotham City. The observation decks – one in each tower and both providing a café – are reached by high-speed elevator and give spectacular views over the city. On particularly fine days, visitors can see Mount Fuji.

2–8–1 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku
Tel: (03) 5320 7890.
Transport: Shinjuku Station, then a ten-minute walk following the underground passage leading west; Tochomae Station on Toei Oedo underground line.
Opening hours: Tues–Sun 0930–2200.
Admission: Free.

Meiji-jingu (Meiji Shrine)
One of Japan’s finest examples of Shinto architecture, the atmospheric Meiji Shrine is tucked away in the centre of a dark, cool forest – an unexpected oasis in the centre of the city. Passing through a vast wooden torii gate, the visitor follows the wide gravel path through the forest and into the shrine precincts. Completed in 1920, the shrine honours the memory of Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken, under whose reign Japan rapidly modernised and was opened to the outside world. On weekends, it is often possible for visitors to see a traditional wedding procession and the precincts are one of the best places to witness the finery and festivities of New Year, Coming of Age Day (15 January) and the children’s festival of Shichi-Go-San (weekends around 15 November). The Gyoen Inner Garden, situated in the shrine grounds, is well worth visiting during June, for the spectacular displays of irises.

1–1 Kamizono-cho, Yoyogi, Shibuya-ku
Tel: (03) 3320 5700.
Transport: Harajuku Station on the JR Yamanote loop line or Meiji-jingumae Station on the Chiyoda underground line.
Opening hours: Daily dawn to dusk (shrine); daily 0900–1630 (Jingu Naien Garden).
Admission: Free (shrine); ¥500 (Gyoen Inner Garden).

Kyoko Higashi Gyoen (Imperial Palace East Garden)
The Imperial Palace East Garden, on the site of the old Edo Castle of the shoguns, is the only part of the Imperial Palace that is regularly open to the public. Entered through the Otemon Gate – once the main entrance to the castle – it is a pleasant formal garden, surrounded by a section of the original moat and incorporating walls and foundations of the inner castle. Special features include a teahouse, pond and waterfall.

Otemachi, Chiyoda-ku
Tel: (03) 3213 1111.
Transport: Nijubashimae Station on the Chiyoda underground line.
Opening hours: Tues–Thurs, Sat and Sun 0900–1530 (Nov–Feb); Tues–Thurs, Sat and Sun 0900–1600 (Mar–Oct).
Admission: Free.

Edo-Tokyo Hakubutsukan (Edo-Tokyo Museum)
Housed in what looks like a colossal white spaceship, the Edo-Tokyo Museum is a wonderful place for visitors to get a feel for Tokyo’s history and culture, from the Edo of the shoguns up to the post-war reconstruction. There are full-size models of period buildings and the Nihombashi ‘Bridge of Japan’, as well as engaging displays presenting the daily life and customs of the city’s past.

1–4–1 Yokoami, Sumida-ku
Tel: (03) 3272 8600.
Transport: Ryogoku Station on JR Sobu line.
Opening hours: Tues, Wed, Sat and Sun 0930–1730, Thurs and Fri 0930–2000.
Admission: ¥600.

Ueno Koen (Ueno Park)
Once the site of temples and nobles’ mansions, Ueno Park is now Tokyo’s premier cherry blossom viewing spot and home to several important museums, as well as Tokyo Zoo. The park is dotted with historically interesting temples and shrines, including the Tokyo ‘branch’ of the Nikko Toshogu Shrine. The Tokyo National Museum houses treasures of Japanese art through the ages, while the National Museum of Western Art and the Tokyo Metropolitan Art Museum host important visiting exhibitions.

Taito-ku, Tokyo
Tel: (03) 3828 5644.
Transport: Ueno Station on the JR Yamanote loop line.
Opening hours: Daily 0500–2300.
Admission: Free (park and shrines).

National Museum of Western Art
Tel: (03) 3828 5131.
Opening hours: Tues–Thurs, Sat and Sun 0930–1700, Fri 0930–2000.
Admission: ¥420.

Tokyo Metropolitan Art Museum
Tel: (03) 3823 6921.
Opening hours: Tues–Sun 0900–1700.
Admission: Varies according to exhibition, with minor exhibitions from ¥500 to ¥1000 and high-profile exhibitions generally ¥1300.

Tokyo National Museum
Tel: (03) 3822 1111.
Opening hours: Tues–Sun 0930–1700.
Admission: ¥420.

Tokyo Zoo
Tel: (03) 3828 5171.
Opening hours: Tues–Sun 0930–1630.
Admission: ¥600.

Tokyo Rainbow Town (Odaiba)
Rainbow Town, also known as Odaiba, on the group of artificial islands in Tokyo Bay, is billed as Tokyo’s ‘Waterfront Town for the 21st Century’. The focus of much futuristic development, the area incorporates prestigious business premises, parks, tourist attractions and spectacular modern architecture. The Fuji Television Center (designed by Kenzo Tange), the Decks Tokyo Beach shopping and restaurant complex and the Tokyo International Exhibition Center (Tokyo Big Sight) are fast becoming Tokyo’s new landmarks, while the ship-shaped Museum of Maritime Science has excellent displays and hands-on exhibits. The driverless monorail ride to and from the island, which gives superb views of the area, is an attraction in itself.

Odaiba, Tokyo Bay
Transport: Yurikamome Monorail line from Shimbashi Station.

Museum of Maritime Science
3–1 Higashi-yashio, Shinagawa-ku
Tel: (03) 5500 1111.
Opening hours: Mon–Fri 1000–1700, Sat and Sun 1000–1800.
Admission: ¥1000.

Further Distractions

Tsukiji Ichiba (Tsukiji Wholesale Fish Market)
The world’s biggest fish market, more than 2500 tons of fish pass through the Tsukiji Wholesale Fish Market every day, with deals totalling approximately £15 million. The first deliveries take place in the early hours but the main action starts with the tuna auction on the quay at the back of the market at around 0400. The bidding is fast and furious and makes a great show. Spectators are welcome but visitors should bear in mind that this is a business, not a tourist attraction. The auctions are over by 0530, when the focus shifts to the wholesale stalls – at least 1500 of them – offering every imaginable variety of fish and seafood to Tokyo’s chefs and food retailers, who come to buy the daily supply. As the city awakes, restaurants situated around the market offer sushi breakfasts, rounded off by a glass of beer. Nowhere in Tokyo can fish be eaten fresher.

5–2–1 Tsukiji, Chuo-ku
Tel: (03) 3542 1111.
Transport: Tsukiji Station on the Hibiya underground line.
Opening hours: Mon–Sat 0500–1000.
Admission: Free.

Tokyo Disneyland
Tokyo Disneyland is a faithful replica of the Californian original, complete with Adventureland, Fantasyland and Tomorrowland, as well as shows, parades and firework displays. The unique and brand-new DisneySea Park, set against the backdrop of Tokyo Bay, is proving enormously popular.

1–1 Maihama, Urayasu-shi
Tel: (047) 354 0001 or (045) 683 3333 (English-language information).
Transport: Maihama Station on the JR Keiyo Line from Tokyo Station.
Opening hours: Daily 0800/0900–2200 (varies seasonally).
Admission: ¥5500 (adult all-inclusive one-day ‘passport’ ticket).

Tours of the City

Walking Tours
The Tokyo Tourist Information Office (tel: (03) 3201 3331) provides a leaflet, ‘Walking Tour Courses in Tokyo’, outlining walking routes in several main areas of the city. Asakusa’s Goodwill Guide Club gives a free one-hour English-language walking tour of this historical area every Sunday afternoon, setting off from its offices on 2–18–9 Kaminarimon, Taito-ku. Information is available from the Asakusa Cultural and Sightseeing Centre (tel: (03) 3842 5566).

Bus Tours
Hato Bus (tel: (03) 3435 6081; fax: (03) 3433 1972), JTB Sunrise Tours (tel: (03) 5796 5454; fax: (03) 5495 0680) and Japan Gray Line (tel: (03) 3433 5745; fax: (03) 3433 8388) all offer a wide variety of half-day, full-day and evening bus tours, with English-speaking guides. For example, Hato Bus offers a half-day (0900–1230) ‘Tokyo Morning Tour’ that departs daily from the Hamamatsucho Bus Terminal. The tour costs ¥5000 and takes in a number of sights, such as the Tokyo Tower and the Imperial Palace Plaza, as well as driving through a number of the cities lively shopping districts. Free hotel pick-up is available. Full day tours usually cost around ¥10,000.

Boat Tours
The Tokyo Cruise Ship Company (tel: (03) 3841 9178) runs a regular waterbus service along the Sumida River, between Asakusa, the Hama Rikyu Gardens, Hinode Pier and Odaiba. The trip takes 40 minutes and costs ¥660 (one way). The company also operates a variety of other waterbus services around Tokyo Bay, lasting between five and 55 minutes and costing ¥200–800. Vingt-et-Un Cruises (tel: (03) 3436 2121) and Symphony Cruises (tel: (03) 3798 8101) offers two-hour daytime and evening boat cruises around Tokyo Bay. The tours cost, on average, ¥5000 and ¥3000 respectively. Symphony Cruises depart from the Hinode Pier, while Vingt-et-Un cruises set off from Takeshiba Pier.

Excursions

For a Half Day

Kamakura: A small coastal town surrounded by wooded hills, some ten kilometres (six miles) south of Tokyo, Kamakura was the seat of Japan’s first military government, the Kamakura Shogunate of 1192–1333. Most famous for the imposing 12m-high (39ft) Great Buddha, which dates to the mid 13th century, the town also boasts several fine Zen temples, the impressive Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gu Shrine and the nearby National Treasure Hall, which displays important Buddhist art of the Kamakura period. Pleasant hiking paths wind through the surrounding hills and the beach is a popular sunbathing and windsurfing spot in summer.

Trains run frequently to Kamakura from Tokyo Station and Shinagawa Station, on the Yokosuka line (journey time – approximately 1 hour). The Tourist Information Office in Tokyo (tel: (03) 3201 3331) provides a leaflet, Hakone and Kamakura, with information on transport and sights.

For a Whole Day

Nikko: One of Japan’s most celebrated tourist attractions and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Nikko is celebrated for the dazzlingly ornate mausoleum of the first shogun, Tokugawa Ieyasu (died 1616), who was the model for the fictional warlord of James Clavell’s novel Shogun. The intricately carved, elaborately painted and gilded gates, halls and storehouses of the mausoleum – known as the Toshogu Shrine – today appear almost gaudy but, as a mid 17th century political representation of shogunal power, they were very much a reflection of the times. Situated amid an ancient cedar forest, the extensive complex also includes Rinnoji Temple, Futarasan Shrine and the smaller, somewhat less elaborate, mausoleum of the third shogun, Tokugawa Iemitsu. A combination entry ticket for all four attractions is available. Beyond Nikko lies Lake Chuzenji and the spectacular Kegon Waterfall, reached by a one-hour bus ride up a scenic mountain road of hairpin bends.

Nikko is situated approximately 150km (93 miles) north of Tokyo and trains leave several times an hour from Asakusa Tobu Station on the privately operated Tobu Nikko line (tel: (03) 3621 5202). The journey takes approximately two hours. JR Rail Pass holders might prefer to take the slightly longer route of the JR Shinkansen bullet train from Tokyo Station or Ueno Station to Utsunomiya, changing there to a local train for Nikko. The Tourist Information Office in Tokyo (tel: (03) 3201 3331) provides a leaflet, Nikko, with information on transport and sights, while the information desk in Tobu Nikko Station (tel: (0288) 534 511) provides leaflets and an English map.

Hakone: The Fuji-Hakone National Park, only 80km (50 miles) southwest of Tokyo, offers a spectacular landscape of lakes and mountains, cultural attractions – such as the impressive open-air art museum – and (assuming the weather co-operates) the bonus of magnificent views of Mount Fuji. The popular circular route through the area by toy train, cable car and boat, passes through forests and old spa villages before whisking visitors high over sulphurous volcanic valleys and finishing with a leisurely cruise on scenic Lake Ashino. The Hakone Free Pass costs approximately ¥5000 (depending on the starting point) and allows unlimited travel on the area’s transport network. Hakone may be reached by Shinkansen Kodama bullet train from Tokyo to Odawara Station, or on the privately operated Odakyu line, which leaves from Tokyo’s Shinjuku Station. The Tourist Information Office in Tokyo (tel: (03) 3201 3331) provides a leaflet, Hakone and Kamakura, with information on transport and sights.

Shopping

Despite ongoing economic troubles and a definite move towards being more ‘Yen-conscious’, the Japanese remain enthusiastic shoppers and indeed the combination of impeccable service, the superb selection of goods and wonderful presentation make shopping in Tokyo very enticing. Although prices are gradually starting to come down and cut price outlets are gaining in popularity there are still few bargains to be had, however, the discerning eye will find numerous unique and affordable items, including ceramics and handicrafts, pearls, electronic goods and toys. The main shopping areas in Tokyo are: stylish Ginza, with its ritzy department stores, designer boutiques and chic galleries; young, trendy Shibuya for clothes, CDs and accessories; the ‘youth Mecca’ of Harajuku for teenage fashions and kitsch; Akihabara for a vast selection of cut-price electronic goods and computers; and vibrant Shinjuku, known for its camera shops, both new and second hand. Odaiba Mall is situated on the Tokyo Rainbow Town development in Tokyo Bay (see Key Attractions).

When buying electrical goods, visitors should remember that Japan runs on 100 volts AC, so an adaptor and transformer will be required unless the items have a dual-voltage switch. In addition, many instruction books are available only in Japanese.

The streets around Sensoji Temple in Asakusa are crowded with small shops specialising in Japanese arts and crafts, while the Jimbocho-Kanda area is the place for second-hand books and prints. Worthy of special mention is the Oriental Bazaar on Harajuku’s Omotesando Avenue, a large arts and souvenir emporium with a wide selection of goods at reasonable prices.

A visit to the basement food hall of a major department store is a must, if only to marvel at the exquisite presentation of the extraordinary selection of foodstuffs. At the other end of the commercial spectrum, lively Ameyoko Market, located under the railway tracks just south of Ueno Park, retains echoes of its origins as Tokyo’s post-war black market, with raucous vendors, cheap prices and crowds of shoppers. The market is open during standard shopping hours.

Antique/flea markets are held every Sunday – on the first and fourth Sundays of the month at Harajuku’s Togo Shrine, on the second Sunday of the month at Nogi Shrine in Nogizaka and most Sundays at Hanazono Shrine in Shinjuku. Starting before dawn, many stalls pack up by early afternoon. These markets are great places for browsing and good buys include old silk kimonos, Japanese dolls, ceramics and lacquer. A smile and a polite request will often yield a discount.

Shops are mostly open seven days a week, 1000–1900/2000, with department stores closed one weekday a week. A consumption tax of 5% is added to the price of most goods and services at the till. Major shops and department stores offer tax-free shopping. Visitors can present their passport and receipt at the service desk for an immediate refund. Credit cards are slowly becoming more widely accepted but most transactions are still done in cash. It is sometimes possible for shoppers to bargain at markets and in electronics stores. This generally takes the form of politely asking for the ‘best price’ and haggling is frowned upon.

Culture

The legacy of the pleasure-loving inhabitants of old Edo, modern Tokyo continues to host an astonishing number of festivals, rituals, observances and celebrations. Starting with the traditional New Year visit to major shrines, to pray for good fortune during the coming year, the Tokyo calendar is full of high days and holidays, from the supremely populist to the positively esoteric. Some events mark a particular anniversary or date in the Buddhist calendar and are restricted to particular neighbourhoods, shrines or temples, while others, such as the spring cherry blossom viewing frenzy, occur citywide.

The traditional arts, too, thrive here, with traditional drama, martial arts, the tea ceremony and flower arranging all widely taught and performed. Tokyo is a stop on the touring schedules of many internationally famous music and dance companies, pop groups and art exhibitions, further adding to the vibrancy of the local arts and entertainment scene. The Tourist Information Centre (tel: (03) 3201 3331) has a database of detailed information on the city’s festivals and the English-language magazines Metropolis and Tokyo Journal publish listings of events, concerts and exhibitions.

The English-language booking agencies, Ticket Pia (tel: (03) 5237 9999) and Lawson Ticket (tel: (03) 5537 9999), are the major ticket merchants, with outlets located around the city. Events are regularly sold out and bookings should be made well in advance.

Music: Lovers of classical music are well catered for in Tokyo. There are several resident symphony orchestras – such as the Tokyo Philharmonic Orchestra and the Tokyo Symphony Orchestra – as well as regular visits by touring orchestras, choirs and opera companies. There are numerous major venues, among them the Bunkamura Orchard Hal, 2–24–1 Dogenzaka, Shibuya-ku (tel: (03) 3477 9999), with transport from Shibuya Station, Suntory Hall, 1–13–1 Akasaka, Minato-ku (tel: (03) 3584 9999), with transport from Akasaka Station on the Chiyoda underground line, and the stunningly designed new concert hall, Tokyo Opera City, 3–20–2 Nishi Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku (tel: (03) 5353 9999) with transport from Shinjuku Station. Tokyo International Forum, 3–5–1 Marunochi, Chiyoda-ku (tel: (03) 5221 9000) with transport from Yurakucho Station on the JR Yamanote loop line, stages a variety of musical and cultural performances in its four halls, one being among the largest in the world, with 5000 seats. Traditional Japanese musical performances, such as taiko (drum) and shamisen (string instrument), are occasionally held at Bunkamura (see above) and in smaller local venues.

Theatre: Of Japan’s traditional dramatic arts, kabuki, with its gorgeous costumes, elaborate staging and complex plots, is probably the most accessible. Kabuki-za, 4–12–15 Ginza, Chuo-ku (tel: (03) 3541 3131), with transport from Higashi-Ginza Station on the Hibiya and Asakusa underground lines, holds regular performances and provides English earphone commentary. Performances are long, sometimes lasting five or six hours, however, it is usually possible to purchase tickets for a single act.

Information on programs of other traditional performing arts, including noh (restrained and highly stylised drama, little changed since Japan’s medieval era), bunraku (puppet theatre) and kyogen (short satirical plays, often performed as intervals during noh dramas), can be obtained from the Tourist Information Centre (tel: (03) 3201 3331).

Contemporary Japanese theatre tends towards the obscure and the language barrier is an additional dissuasion. Far more accessible are the extravagant review-style performances of the glamorous all-female Takarazuka troop, held at the Tokyo Takarazuka Theatre, 1–1–3 Yurakucho, Chiyoda-ku (tel: (03) 5251 2001), with transport from Yurakucho Station on the Yamanote loop line.

Dance: Overseas dance companies, ranging from ballet to tango, regularly include Tokyo on their itineraries. Performances are often held at Bunkamura, 2–24–1 Dogenzaka, Shibuya-ku (tel: (03) 3477 9999). Butoh, an experimental, sometimes grotesque form of expressive dance developed in Japan in the 1960s, has a loyal following among more avant-garde Japanese audiences. Performances take place in various venues, and are listed in the event sections of Metropolis and Tokyo Journal.

Film: Tokyo’s many cinemas are concentrated in Ginza, Shibuya, Shinjuku and Ikebukuro. Foreign films are generally shown in their original language and subtitled in Japanese. However, tickets are expensive and Hollywood releases often lag months behind other countries. The last show generally starts around 1900, although there is sometimes a later show on weekends. Daily papers and event magazines have listings of what’s on. Mainstream cinemas include Hibiya Chanter Cinema, 1–2–2 Yurakucho, Chiyoda-ku (tel: (03) 3591 1511), and Shibuya Tokyu Movie Theatre, Tokyu Bunka Kaikan, 2–21–12 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku (tel: (03) 3407 7029). A good arts cinema is Cinema Rise, 13–17 Udagawa-cho, Shibuya-ku (tel: (03) 3464 0052).

Rather than literary representations, Tokyo has always inspired powerful images, from the ‘ukiyo-e’ woodblock prints of the Edo period to the films of the present day. Juzo Itami’s Tampopo (1986) and Yasujiro Ozu’s Tokyo Story (1953) explore aspects of life in the city, while Katsuhiro Otomo’s acclaimed Akira (1988) is a sci-fi animation set in a futuristic vision of Tokyo. However, it is Ridley Scott’s Blade Runner (1982) with which many Westerners will be most familiar. While actually set in a future Los Angeles and filmed in Hollywood, the scenes of a dark, rainy, neon-studded cityscape have become for many an enduring image of Tokyo.

Cultural events: Japan’s traditional neighbourhood matsuri (religious festivals) are still very much a living tradition. Joyous and good-naturedly boisterous, they offer a very different view of the Japanese to that gained in an everyday or business setting. Commencing at the local shrine, mikoshi (portable shrines) are paraded through the streets by men, women and children dressed in festival garb, accompanied by traditional music and dancing. Street stalls sell snacks, trinkets and copious amounts of beer. Held in neighbourhoods throughout Tokyo during the summer, the famous ‘big three’ are the Kanda Matsuri held in Kanda and the Sanja Matsuri held in Asakusa, both of which take place in mid May, and the Sanno Matsuri held in Akasaka in mid June. With thousands of participants and many times that number of spectators, these festivals are great fun but can be incredibly crowded and exhausting.

April is the season for cherry blossom viewing and it seems that the whole population visits the city’s parks to picnic and make merry under the blossoms. During August, traditional Bon-odori dances are held beneath colourful lanterns to commemorate the spirits of the ancestors. The fun, gaudy and very un-Japanese Asakusa Samba Carnival is organised by Brazilian–Japanese returnees and takes place annually in late August on the streets of Asakusa. The annual Tokyo International Film Festival is held in late October/early November at Bunkamura, 2–24–1 Dogenzaka, Shibuya-ku (tel: (03) 3477 9999), and cinemas in the Shibuya area.

The three major sumo tournaments that take place annually in Tokyo are major events, as is the baseball season, which opens in April and runs through the summer to the championships in October. Meanwhile, Tokyo’s two huge trade fair venues host major exhibitions throughout the year, one of the best known being the annual Tokyo Motor Show, which is usually held in late autumn.

Literary Notes
Tokyo is home to Japanese authors as diverse as Kenzaburo Oe, 1994 Nobel Laureate in Literature, and Banana Yoshimoto, author of the cult novel Kitchen (1993). From the great ‘interpreter of Japan’, Lafcadio Hearn – an early foreign resident of Tokyo and from the diplomatic wives of the 19th century, who delighted in the cherry blossoms and the dainty manners of the people – to Angela Carter, who pronounced Tokyo ‘an exceedingly pleasant place in which to live’, Tokyo has merited inclusion in a host of memoirs. These include the writings of William Faulkner, Aldous Huxley, Jean Cocteau and Charlie Chaplin. William Gibson’s novel, Idoru (1997), explores Tokyo’s technological future, while the darker side of the city is vividly portrayed in Speed Tribes: Children of the Japanese Bubble (1994) by Karl Taro Greenfeld. A Booker-shortlisted novel set in Tokyo is the wonderful Number 9 Dream (2001) by David Mitchell.

Nightlife

It’s at night that Tokyo really comes alive. Busy seven nights a week, the vibrant Roppongi district has a profusion of bars, clubs and discos, frequented by the smart ex-pat set as well as servicemen from the US military bases. Shinjuku, on the other hand, offers a more Japanese scene, with an incredible variety of eating and drinking places, from huge beer halls to tiny intimate theme bars, cinemas, clubs, massage parlours and Japan’s largest gay scene.

Dress codes are rarely overly strict. Entrance fees to clubs are high but usually include a couple of drinks. Cover charges are common in izakaya (Japanese-style pubs) and bars. Drink prices very much depend on the surroundings and range from the reasonable to the stratospheric. If in doubt, do ask before ordering. Should you be tempted by one of the city’s many ‘hostess clubs’, be aware that a beer in the company of an attractive companion can easily cost ¥10,000. Tokyo’s gay bars are clustered in the Shinjuku 2–chome area. They are generally wary of foreign customers and are best explored with a Japanese companion. Several major hotels have ‘sky bars’, offering impressive night views of the city.

There are no specific licensing hours in Tokyo, although the minimum drinking age is 20 years. Admission fees and opening times vary widely and the Tokyo nightlife scene is ever changing – for listings of what’s on and information about the latest hotspots, visitors should check the English-language Metropolis or Tokyo Journal.

Bars: For a typically Japanese ‘pub’ experience, izakaya offer beer, sake and a huge range of Japanese dishes. Among the most accessible to foreigners are the chains, Murasaki and Tengu. Both have numerous locations across the city and have a lively atmosphere, reasonable prices and convenient picture menus. For a more international scene, head to Roppongi and check out the brash, foreigner-friendly Gas Panic, 3–15–24 Roppongi. At nearby Castillo, 6–1–8 Roppongi, the non-stop disco classics mean the tiny dancefloor is often busier than the bar. For a pint of Guinness, try The Dubliners, 3–28–9 Shinjuku, or experience rock‘n’roll Japanese style at the loud and seedy Rolling Stone, 3–2–7 Shinjuku. Las Chicas, 5–47–6 Jingumae, Harajuku, is a trendy bar/restaurant complex; the leafy courtyard is a fine place to drink on a summer’s evening. Bar Isn’t It?, Roppongi, Minatoku, opposite the Shibuya Bunkamura art centre (see Culture), is a popular hangout and has the added attraction that all food and drinks are ¥500. For a more refined experience, try Hotel Okura’s Highlander, 2–10–4 Toranomon, a smart bar offering a selection of over 200 whiskies, or the New York Bar, a sophisticated jazz bar on the 52nd floor of the swanky Park Hyatt Hotel, 3–7–1–2 Nishi-Shinjuku.

Casinos: Casino gambling is strictly controlled in Japan and although there are currently moves towards liberalisation, venues are still very limited. Central Tokyo’s only casino is in the Tokyo Dome complex, 1–3 Koraku, Bunkyo Ku. This casino is open to non-members, although Westerners might find the slot machines and blackjack on offer fairly tame. The dress code is smart – a jacket and tie are required for men. The minimum age for entry is 20 years and a passport is required.

Clubs: Club Asia, 1–8 Maruyamacho, Shibuya, hosts major DJ events and ‘The Ring’, a much-anticipated monthly gay/straight dance party. Take a break from the dancefloor to surf the Internet in an adjacent room. The Liquid Room, 1–20–1 Kabukicho, Shinjuku, is a trendy venue for live events and one-off club nights, while Velfarre, 7–14–22 Roppongi, is a huge multi-level disco palace with a strict dress code and a high admission charge. The slick Lexington Queen, 3–13–14 Roppongi, is much loved by the showbiz/model crowd and a good place to spot celebrities, or you can find the hip student crowd at the progressive venue, Yellow, 1–10–11 Nishi-Azabu. For a change of rhythm, try Salsa Sudada, 7–13–8 Roppongi, for a heady mix of cocktails and Latin sounds.

Live music: Tokyo’s local pop and rock scene revolves around ‘live houses’ – dark disco-like venues with a small stage. Crocodile, 6–18–8 Jingumae, Harajuku, and Club Quattro, 32–13 Udagawacho, Shibuya, are among the best known names. Milk, 1–13–3 Nishi-Ebisu, a hip, indie rock music venue, is a club/live house hybrid. Tokyo’s premier jazz venue is Blue Note, 6–3–16 Minami-Aoyama, which regularly attracts top international acts. The two main venues for major rock acts are The Budokan, 2–3 Kitanomaru-Koen, Chiyoda-ku, and Tokyo Dome, 1–3 Koraku, Bunkyo-ku. Tickets are pricey and should be reserved well in advance.

Special Events

As any visitor to Tokyo will soon discover, festivals play an enormous part in Japanese life. Known as ‘matsuri’, the majority of these celebrations have Shinto origins, and range from frenetic street dancing to enjoying a glass of sake under the new cherry blossoms. As a rule, the more significant the festival, the more popular it is, which can make transport and accommodation scarce and more expensive. Those planning to visit Tokyo during New Year (28 December to 4 January) and Golden Week (29 April to 5 May) would be strongly advised to make arrangements well in advance. Tourists are also warned that during these times most shops, restaurants and attractions will close.

O-Shogatsu (New Year), families visit temples and shrines to offer prayers for the coming year, 1-3 Jan, at temples and Shinto shrines across the city
Special Opening of the Imperial Palace Grounds, crowds flock to the public appearance of the Emperor and Empress, early Jan, Imperial Palace Grounds
Dezomeshiki (New Year’s Parade of Firemen), Tokyo’s firemen perform traditional acrobatic stunts and display the latest equipment, early Jan, Odaiba
Setsubun, people travel to temples to take part in a bean throwing ceremony, to drive away imaginary demons, 3 or 4 Feb, at popular Tokyo temples include Kanda Myojin Shrine, Hie Shrine and Sensoji Temple
Hana Matsuri (The Birth of Buddha), also known as the flower festival, worshippers pour amacha (hydranger leaf tea) over temple statues of Buddah as an offering, 8 Apr, in the Sensji Temple and throughout the city
Golden Week, a major holiday incorporating several national holidays, during which many offices close and huge numbers of locals take a holiday (a crowded time to travel), 29 Apr-5 May, throughout the city
Cherry Blossom Viewing, representing the birth of spring, throughout Apr, families gather under the newly arrived blossoms to drink sake and picnic, Ueno Park and Chidorigafuchi Park
Kanda Matsuri (Kanda Festival), a major three-day festival honouring the Kanda Myojin Shrine’s deities. Worshipers parade ornate golden mikoshi (portable shrines) and traditional floats through the streets, a weekend in mid May (odd-numbered years only)
Sanja Matsuri (Sanja Festival), Tokyo’s biggest and most famous festival features enormous parades of portable shrines carried by men and women in traditional costume, third weekend in May, Asakusa
Sanno Matsuri (Sanno festival), historic street festival featuring parades of unusual portable shrines and a procession of 500 people in traditional court dress, a weekend in mid Jun (even-numbered years only), Hie Shrine
Sumida Hanabi (Sumida Fireworks Festival), Tokyo’s biggest and most spectacular fireworks display erupts over the Sumida River, late Jul or early Aug, Asakusa's Sumida Park
Asakusa Samba Carnival, the Japanese version of the Rio festival, late Aug, a riot of colour and sound organised in Asakusa by Brazilian-Japanese returnees
Bon-odori dances, dancing takes place beneath colourful lanterns to commemorate the spirits of the ancestors, Aug, various venues
Tokyo International Film Festival, Japan’s annual film extravaganza, Oct 22-30
Tokyo Motor Show, passenger cars and motorcycles featured on odd-numbered years, commercial vehicles featured on even-numbered years , late Oct-early Nov, Makuhari Messe, Chiba
Shichi-go-san (Seven, Five, Three Festival), boys aged five and girls aged three and seven are dressed in their most elaborate kimonos and taken to Shinto shrines to pray for their future, 15 Nov (or closest weekend), Meiji Shrine, Asakusa Shrine, Hie Shrine and others across the city
Tori-no-Ichi (Rake Fair), extraordinarily decorated bamboo rakes, believed to bring good fortune, are sold at a great shrine fair, mid-Nov, Otori Shrine, Asakusa
Hagoita-Ichi (Battledore Fair), lavishly decorated battledore paddles of all sizes are sold at a large and popular temple fair in the hope of an auspicious start to the New Year, Dec, Sensoji Temple, Asakusa
Omisoka (New Year’s Eve), Buddhist temple bells ring out 108 times and people flock to temples and shrines to see in the New Year, 31 Dec, Meiji Shrine and temples and shrines across the city.

Sport

Sumo wrestling is Japan’s national sport and the six annual 15-day tournaments excite great interest throughout the country. The January, May and September tournaments are held in Tokyo. Tickets can be purchased at the venue, the Ryogoku Kokugikan Stadium, 1–3–28 Yokoami, Sumida-ku (tel: (03) 5237 9310). Further information can be found online.

Even greater passion and devotion is aroused by baseball (yakyu or besubaru). Several of the country’s 12 professional teams are based in Tokyo and matches always attract tremendous crowds. One of the best places for one to see a game is Tokyo Dome, 1–3 Koraku, Bunkyo Ku (tel: (03) 5800 9999), home to Japan’s most popular team, the Yomiuri Giants.

Following Japan’s successful co-hosting of the World Cup 2002, football (sakka) is more popular than ever. Japan’s professional J-League consists of 12 teams and games are regularly played at Tokyo Dome (see above) or the National Stadium, Kokuritsu Kyogijo (tel: (03) 3403 1151).

Tokyo has two horseracing (keiba) tracks, the Tokyo Keibajo (tel: (0423) 633 141) and the Oi Keibajo (tel: (03) 3763 2151), with races generally taking place on weekends.

Ticket Pia (tel: (03) 5237 9999 for English-language telephone booking) and Lawson Ticket (tel: (03) 5537 9999) are the major ticket agencies, with outlets around the city. Events are regularly sold out and bookings should be made well in advance.

Fitness centres: The Clark Hatch Fitness Center, Azabu Towers, 2–1–3 Azabudai Minato-ku (tel: (03) 3584 4092), offers day membership and the major hotels almost all have fully equipped fitness centres. The Park Hyatt’s high rise Club on the Park, 3–7–1–2 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku (tel: (03) 5322 1234), and Hotel Nikko Tokyo’s Bayside Spa ‘Zen’, 1–9–1 Daiba, Minato-ku (tel: (03) 5500 5500), both deserve a special mention.

Golf: Japan is a golf-crazy country and, while Tokyo boasts over 500 driving ranges (often located on rooftops), enthusiasts must be prepared to travel to golf courses. Fees are high and weekends can be amazingly busy. The Sakawa Royal Golf Club, Kanagawa Prefecture (tel: (0465) 772 226; fax: (0465) 772 632), two hours by train west of Tokyo, boasts views of Mount Fuji. Non-members may play on weekdays and on weekends outside peak season. The Kazusa Monarch Country Club, 856–2 Yanoshiroji Yasurozawa Kimitsu, Chiba (tel: (0439) 293 101; fax: (0439) 293 399) welcomes non-members at all times. Designed by Jack Nicklaus, the course is 90 minutes by train southeast of Tokyo. Course fees are from ¥13,000. Most golf courses are closed on Monday. The Tokyo Golf Course Guide gives additional information.

Jogging: Tokyo’s parks are popular with joggers. A favourite is Yoyogi Park, reachable via Harajuku Station on the JR Yamanote loop line or Meiji-jingumae Station on the Chiyoda underground line. The outer moat of the Imperial Palace offers an attractive jogging route but runners here might suffer from car fumes.

Tennis: The Hibiya-koen tennis courts (tel: (03) 3501 6428) are centrally located in Hibiya Park, near Ginza. They are open 0900–2100 daily and fees are ¥3000–4000 per hour per court. Membership registration is required but can be obtained free of charge. Court reservations should be made well in advance. There is a website that gives information on other places to play.