Bangkok

A curious blend of the traditional East with the modern West, every street in Bangkok holds a surprise. Ramshackle buildings crouch next to exotic temples surrounded by delightful gardens, which are in turn overlooked by modern hotels and offices. Bangkok has emerged as a major world city with the traffic jams to match, as well as the all-pervasive mobile phones and designer clothes that are a prominent feature on the streets. The chaos on the roads is mirrored by the busy traffic on the Chao Phraya River, which dissects the city and is regularly crisscrossed by long-tailed boats, river taxis and small rowing boats, all miraculously missing each other.

But traditional Thai life is never very far away. Weaving among the nose-to-tail traffic in the morning rush hour, saffron-robed monks can still be seen collecting alms, while just moments from the city centre whole communities live in stilt houses by the river, eking out a living using skills that have not changed in centuries.

In 1782, Bangkok became the capital of what was then Siam, following the destruction of the previous capital, Ayutthaya. Bangkok is not the name used by the Thais – they call it Krung Thep, which is actually a very shortened version of its extremely long full title. The absolute rule of the monarchy ended in 1932 when it was replaced by a system of constitutional monarchy. To this day, the monarchy is regarded with almost religious reverence and it is an offence, punishable by imprisonment, to insult the royal family. His Majesty King Bhumibol is the longest reigning monarch in the world, having come to power in 1946. Following the end of absolute monarchy, Thailand moved towards democracy but this has been thwarted by the military, which has often staged coups in protest at government policies. The role of the military in domestic politics has now been curtailed but the 1990s saw governments come and go although there has been some stability since the government took on the job of tackling the economic crisis.

Thailand is staunchly anti-Communist, as seen during the Vietnam War when it was a strategic ally for the USA. Latterly, it has softened its stance and relations have improved with its Communist neighbours who have now become members of the Association of South East Asian Nations (ASEAN), of which Thailand is an influential member. Thailand’s main industries are tourism, textiles and electronics. Despite over half of Thai citizens working in agriculture, the industry only accounts for 15% of the GDP, although Thailand is still the world’s largest exporter of rice. The difference in growth between industry and agriculture during the past few decades has resulted in enormous inequality between the city and countryside. hailand is a tropical country so it is hot throughout the year, but the best time to visit is between November and March, during the dry season. During the rainy season, humidity is very high and the downpours are short but violent and the streets of Bangkok often flood.

City Statistics

Location: Central Plain, Thailand.
Country dialling code: 66.
Population: 6 million (city); 10 million (metropolitan area).
Ethnic mix: 80% Thai, 10% Chinese, 4% Malaysian with remainder a mix of Lao, Khmer, Indian and Burmese.
Religion: 95% Buddhist, 4% Muslim with the remainder being a mix of Christians, Hindus and Sikhs.
Time zone: GMT + 7.
Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz; two-pin plugs are standard.
Average January temp: 26°C (79°F).
Average July temp: 29°C (84°F).
Annual rainfall: 1,500mm (58.5 inches).

Cost of Living

One-litre bottle of mineral water: B20
33cl bottle of beer: B90 (local beer B65)
Financial Times newspaper: B95
36-exposure colour film: B120
City-centre bus ticket: B4-20
Adult football ticket: B50-100
Three-course meal with wine/beer: From B850

100 Thai Baht (B100) = £1.48; US$2.57; C$3.02; A$3.58; €2.13
Currency conversion rates as of April 2006

City Overview

Love it or hate it, buzzing, sweaty, exotic Bangkok is a city that really is larger than life. For some, the frenetic pace, heat, traffic and lack of personal space can be overpowering and are good reasons to pass through the city as quickly as possible, but for many others, the sheer dynamism is intoxicating. A curious blend of the traditional East with the modern West, every street in Bangkok holds a surprise. Ramshackle buildings crouch next to exotic temples surrounded by delightful gardens, which are in turn overlooked by modern hotels and offices.

Bangkok has emerged as a major world city with the traffic jams to match, as well as the all-pervasive mobile phones and designer clothes that are a prominent feature on the streets. The chaos on the roads is mirrored by the busy traffic on the Chao Phraya River, which dissects the city and is regularly crisscrossed by long-tailed boats, river taxis and small rowing boats, all miraculously missing each other. But traditional Thai life is never very far away. Weaving among the nose-to-tail traffic in the morning rush hour, saffron-robed monks can still be seen collecting alms, while just moments from the city centre whole communities live in stilt houses by the river, eking out a living using skills that have not changed in centuries. In 1782, Bangkok became the capital of what was then Siam, following the destruction of the previous capital, Ayutthaya. Bangkok is not the name used by the Thais – they call it Krung Thep, which is actually a very shortened version of its extremely long full title. The absolute rule of the monarchy ended in 1932 when it was replaced by a system of constitutional monarchy. To this day, the monarchy is regarded with almost religious reverence and it is an offence, punishable by imprisonment, to insult the royal family. His Majesty King Bhumibol is the longest reigning monarch in the world, having come to power in 1946. Following the end of absolute monarchy, Thailand moved towards democracy but this has been thwarted by the military, which has often staged coups in protest at government policies. The role of the military in domestic politics has now been curtailed but the 1990s saw governments come and go although there has been some stability since the government took on the job of tackling the economic crisis.

Thailand is staunchly anti-Communist, as seen during the Vietnam War when it was a strategic ally for the USA. Latterly, it has softened its stance and relations have improved with its Communist neighbours who have now become members of the Association of South East Asian Nations (ASEAN), of which Thailand is an influential member. Thailand’s main industries are tourism, textiles and electronics. Despite over half of Thai citizens working in agriculture, the industry only accounts for 15% of the GDP, although Thailand is still the world’s largest exporter of rice. The difference in growth between industry and agriculture during the past few decades has resulted in enormous inequality between the city and countryside. Thailand is a tropical country so it is hot throughout the year, but the best time to visit is between November and March, during the dry season. During the rainy season, humidity is very high and the downpours are short but violent and the streets of Bangkok often flood.

Getting There By Air

Don Muang International Airport
Airline Name Weekly Flights Book Here Contact Number
ANA 28 +66-2-238-5121
Asiana Airlines 22 +66-2-656-9050
Austrian 14 +66-2-267-0873
Lufthansa 28 +66-2-264-2400
Scandinavian Airlines 12 +66-2-260-0444
Singapore Airlines 108 +66-2-236-0440
SWISS 24
Thai Airways International 1589 +66-2-628-2000
United 14 +66-2-253-0558
Total Weekly Flights 1839

Bangkok Don Muang International Airport (BKK)
Tel: (02) 535 1111.

Bangkok International Airport, located 25km (15miles) north of the city centre, is operated by the Airports Authority of Thailand. It is a major gateway to South East Asia and one of the region’s busiest airports catering for 88 international carriers. Over 25 million passengers use the airport annually. The new international terminal has relieved congestion and handles passengers efficiently. A second international airport – Suvarnabhumi Airport – is currently under construction at Nong Ngu Hao, to the south of Bangkok, which will be in operation by 2005.

Major airlines: Thai Airways International, a member of the Star Alliance network, (tel: (02) 513 0121; website: www.thaiair.com) is the national airline Other major airlines, also members of the Star Alliance network and serving Bangkok: ANA (NH), Asiana Airlines (OZ), Austrian (OS), Lufthansa (LH), Scandinavian Airlines (SK), Singapore Airlines (SQ), SWISS (LX) and United (UA).

Approximate flight times to Bangkok: From London is 11 hours 35 minutes; from New York is 16 hours 30 minutes; from Los Angeles is 17 hours 5 minutes; from Toronto is 20 hours 30 minutes and from Sydney is 8 hours 45 minutes.

Airport facilities: These include 24-hour shopping, duty free, restaurants, snack bars, postal services, bureaux de change, tourist information, hotel reservations, left-luggage and medical service. Car hire companies include Avis and Budget.

Business facilities: There is a business centre (tel: (02) 535 3711, ext 44) at the airport, as well as executive lounges and services like limousine hire and rental of mobile phones.

Arrival/departure tax: There is no arrival tax but B500 (international) is payable in cash on departure. There is also a tax of B30 on domestic flights but this is included in the price of the ticket.

Transport to the city: Taxis can be pre-paid for at the Arrivals Hall in the airport; visitors should expect to pay B400-500 to the city centre (journey time – 40-90 minutes). Airport buses (tel: (02) 995 1252) operate four different routes into the city every 30 minutes (0530-0030). Route A-1 goes to the Silom Road business district, A-2 goes to Sanam Luang (Royal Grand Palace), A-3 goes to Sukhumvit Road and A-4 goes to Hualampong Railway Station (approximate journey times – one hour; cost: B100). Bangkok Airport Express trains operate every 90 minutes (0800-1900) from the railway station adjacent to the airport (journey time – 35 minutes; fare: B100). The tourist information booth in the Arrivals Hall has the schedule.

Getting Around

Public Transport

The public transport system within Bangkok is plentiful and cheap, although most visitors use the taxis or the three-wheeled taxis called tuk tuks (see below). An elevated monorail, called the Bangkok Transit System (tel: (02) 617 7300) but known as Skytrain, operates on two lines across the city. The Sukhumvit Line runs from On Nut along Sukhumvit Road to Siam Square, Phaya Thai Road, Victory Monument and Mo Chit. The Silom Line starts at Saphan Taksin and runs through Silom’s business area, Siam Square, ending at the National Stadium. Since opening around three years ago, the efficient Skytrain has vastly improved the time it takes to move around the city. The government has approved extension of the lines across the river and to the south. Trains operate 0600-2400, running every 3-4 minutes during the rush hour and every 5-6 minutes off peak. Tickets should be purchased from automatic ticket machines, with prices costing B10-40 across seven zones. Passes can be bought for 10, 15 and 30 journeys, costing B250, B300 and B540 respectively. Three-day tourist passes are available for B280. he Bangkok Mass Transit Authority (tel: (02) 246 0973) runs a comprehensive and highly complex bus system. This operates across the city 0500-2300, with fares on regular buses ranging from B3.50 (cream and red) to B5 (white and blue) and on air-conditioned buses (cream and blue) from B6 to B16, depending on distance travelled. The yellow and orange Euro II air-conditioned buses cost B18 and they use fuel-efficient engines to belatedly attempt to reduce air pollution in the city. There is also a limited night service (cream and red) operating 2300-0500 with a fare of B5. Bus route maps are widely available in hotels and bookshops. ork is underway on a 20km (12-mile) subway system, which is scheduled for completion in 2003/4. The traffic jams in Bangkok are legendary and pollution extreme and this is aggravated by the roadworks preparing the tunnels and stations for the new subway.

Taxis

Taxis can be hailed on the streets. If they are metered taxis, they will have a taxi meter sign on the roof. Visitors should check that the meter is turned on. The meter rate starts at B35 for the first two kilometres, increasing by B5 for each subsequent kilometre. There are also unmetered taxis where the fare must be agreed upon before leaving. Note that the passenger has to pay for any road tolls incurred. Visitors should always ensure they have plenty of small change to pay the taxi fare. Many people arrange a taxi through the concierge at their hotel where the rate is fixed and paid to the hotel before departure. It is also possible to rent a taxi for longer trips. In these cases, a fare should always be agreed in advance, even with metered taxis. Tipping is not expected but much appreciated.

Tuk Tuk

These three-wheeled taxis ply the streets and are ideal for short journeys. Fares must be negotiated before getting in and range from B40 to B150 depending on the distance travelled. The number of tuk tuks in the city is decreasing but they can still be found around hotels and visitor attractions.

River Taxis

Numerous river taxis, operated by Chao Phraya Express River Taxi (tel: (02) 222 5330), travel upstream and downstream on the Chao Phraya River, acting more like buses than taxis. Fares range between B5 and B15 and the hours of operation are 0600-1840 daily. Some special express boats operate only during the morning and evening rush hours with limited stops. Their destinations/stops are indicated by different coloured flags. Other smaller boats just shuttle from one side of the river to the other.

Motorcycle Taxis

As a result of the gridlock experienced during the rush hour, motorcycle taxis are now available as they can manoeuvre between the cars to reach their destination more quickly. Fares range from B15 to B100 depending on distance. It is compulsory for passengers to wear helmets, which are supplied by the driver. Drivers wear coloured tabards for identification and wait at road intersections.

Limousines

These can be provided by the main car hire companies (see Car Hire below) or at the airport (tel: (02) 535 2801, terminal one, counter 7, and terminal two, counter 5). Limousines to the city from the airport cost from B650.

Driving in the City

Driving in Bangkok requires a great deal of patience and a certain stubbornness. Few visitors attempt to hire a car, as good knowledge of the city is required to be able to drive around. The density of the traffic and the number of lanes mean that drivers always need to know which lane to be in. There are a number of expressways crossing the city with clearly signposted exits but, during the rush hours (0700-0900 and 1600-1800), the traffic is often gridlocked. Traffic direction and entry/exit locations change during the day without warning. Bangkok drivers, in particular taxis, buses and motorbikes, are very aggressive and unlikely to give way. For those who do risk driving, many of the large shopping complexes and hotels have a car park attached and a convenient location is the Siam Centre on Rama I Road, which is open 24 hours. Car parks cost in the region of B20 for up to three hours and B10 for each subsequent hour.

Car Hire

Many visitors to Thailand now choose to hire a car, although few hire one within Bangkok because of the difficulties of moving through the constantly heavy traffic. Drivers must be at least 23 years old and have held a driving licence for two years. A national licence and International Driving Permit are required. It is compulsory to purchase Collision Damage Waiver and Theft Protection and these are generally included in the hire price. Payment must be made by credit card. Avis have an office at 2-12 Wireless Road (tel: (02) 255 5300), and Budget at 19/23 Building A, Royal City Avenue, New Petchburi Road (tel: (02) 203 0250). Hire of a standard saloon car costs from B2000 per day or B12,000 per week.

Bicycle Hire

On Rattanakosin Island, footpaths have been converted into cycle paths, which pass places such as the Royal Grand Palace and Sanam Luang. Bicycles can be hired from the Bangkok Tourist Bureau (tel: (02) 225 7612) at a cost of B150 for a half day and B200 for a full day (deposit B1000).

Business

Business Profile: Thailand and Bangkok were at the heart of the Asian economic collapse in 1997. The economy had been growing at a steady pace throughout the 1980s and 1990s and it was perceived to be one of the Asian Tiger economies. In 1997, the economy shrunk and unemployment increased dramatically. The government took swift action to control the economy and stabilise the currency, and there was improvement during 2000. It looked like the health of the economy would return, however, this faltered in 2001 following the events of 11 September and exports from Thailand decreased. The economic growth fell to just over 1% whereas in 2000, it had been over 6%.

Tourism continues to be a particular success story for Thailand. Following the economic collapse and the flotation of the Baht in July 1997, the government launched its ‘Amazing Thailand’ campaign, which saw a dramatic increase in the number of visitors, many of whom were keen to take advantage of the favourable exchange rate. Tourist arrivals have continued to increase year on year and 2001 saw 10.1 million tourists – an increase of 5.78% on 2000.

As Thailand is perceived to be at the heart of South East Asia and the gateway to other markets in the region, many multinational companies have a presence in the city. Companies from all industries have offices or manufacturing companies in Bangkok, such as Toyota, Unilever, Proctor and Gamble, Philips, Sony, Compaq and even Tesco, who bought a 75% share in a retail group with 12 stores. Despite the downturn of business and the erosion of profits for all markets, most foreign investors have stayed put and favour a long-term commitment to Bangkok and Thailand as a whole. There is still a huge difference in the standard of living between city dwellers and those in the countryside. The national rate of unemployment increased significantly in 2001 to 3.89%, which is comparable to the figure for Bangkok.

Business Etiquette: Most senior businesspeople in large or international companies will speak English but it is not common in smaller companies. It is essential to make appointments for business meetings and to exchange business cards. Punctuality is also very important (although the visitor is quite often likely to be kept waiting after arrival) – so the Bangkok traffic must be taken into consideration when going to appointments. Thai hosts are quite likely to give small gifts to visitors, so it is a good idea to reciprocate with a typical national gift of one’s own. Visitors should never get angry or raise their voice, if things are not going according to plan, as this will mean the loss of face on both sides. Much more progress will be made by remaining calm.

Meetings often take place over lunch and these are generally held in a Thai restaurant. Thai businesspeople are quite formal in their dress but, because of the extreme heat, it is quite acceptable and practical to dispense with the wearing of a suit jacket. Office hours are usually 0900-1700 Monday to Friday. There is a large ex-pat community in Bangkok and there is a big after-work drinking scene.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview: The sprawling city of Bangkok is full of interesting attractions for tourists, however, the heavily congested traffic means that it is difficult to cover a lot of ground in a single day. Sightseeing should be selective if time is short or restricted to one area per day, although the new Skytrain does help visitors travel across town quicker. An excellent way to appreciate the layout of the city is to go to the observation deck on the 77th floor of the Baiyoke Sky Hotel, the second tallest hotel in the world, after the Grand Hyatt in Shanghai.

Many of the main places of interest, such as the Royal Grand Palace, Wat Pho and the National Museum, are to the east of the Chao Phraya River (west of the north–south railway line) in an area called Rattanakosin Island, which is also home to many hotels. However, some visitors may stay to the east of the railway line in the Sukhumvit Road area, where there is excellent shopping, nightlife and tourist sights, such as Suan Pakkard Palace Museum and Jim Thompson Thai House.

Apart from the major sights (see Key Attractions), which are all ‘must-see’, there are numerous other attractions, including over 400 temples. To the north of the Royal Grand Palace is Sanam Luang, which is a huge public area, surrounded by old tamarind trees, used for many ceremonies throughout the year, such as the Ploughing Ceremony, as well as being a popular place for kite-flying and just passing the time. The 19th-century Wat Suthat on Bamrung Muang Road is renowned for its murals depicting the lives of Buddha. In front of the temple is Sao Ching Cha (Giant Swing), which was the site of a Brahmin ceremony until the 1920s. Only the posts of the swing remain.

Chinatown is a lively area located between the river and Hualampong railway station. The area is fascinating for its maze of narrow lanes and open-fronted shops selling a cornucopia of items. On Yaowarat Road, Wat Trai Mit houses a gleaming solid gold Buddha, three metres (ten feet) high and weighing over five tons. Close to Chinatown is Phahurat, the main Indian area, crammed with colourful fabric shops and excellent Indian restaurants. On Si Ayutthaya Road, in an elegant area full of government buildings and the current royal residence, is Wat Benjamabopit, mainly built with Italian marble and a mix of European and Thai architecture. Lumphini Park is a haven of tranquillity in the heart of the city, dotted with pavilions and two small lakes. For visitors who do not have time to travel in the rest of Thailand, the Ancient City is an open-air museum with full-size and scaled-down replicas of famous buildings, monuments and temples from all over the country. It covers an area of 112 hectares (280 acres) and is 33km (20 miles) southeast of the city centre.

Well worth a visit is Bang Pa In, 60km (37 miles) north of Bangkok, the former summer residence of the royal family in the 17th century, which is a collection of buildings reflecting Oriental and European influences. Whether visiting palaces or temples, it is important to dress respectfully. Entry can and will be refused if this rule is not followed.

Tourist Information
Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT)
Le Concorde Building, 10th floor, 202 Ratchadaphisek Road
Tel: (02) 694 1222. Fax: (02) 694 1220.
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0830-1630.

There is another office at 4 Ratchadamnoen Nok Avenue, Pomprab (open daily 0830-1630). The Tourist Service Centre on Khao San Road (in front of Chana Songkram Police Station) is open daily 0800-2400. The tourist police provide 24-hour assistance for complaints and emergencies from their an office on Ratchadamnoen Nok Avenue or through the toll-free hotline (tel: 1155).

Key Attractions

Royal Grand Palace
The Royal Grand Palace is a glittering walled complex that houses several palaces, all highly decorated with tiles and ceramics. Building was begun in 1782 when Bangkok was founded as the capital of Thailand. The complex houses Wat Phra Kaeo, the holiest of all Thai temples, where the sacred Emerald Buddha rests, not covered in emeralds but jade. There is even a scale model of Angkor Wat. There is a strict dress code and visitors wearing shorts, mini-skirts, sleeveless shirts or flip-flops will be refused entry, although it is possible to hire trousers and plastic shoes.

Na Phra Lan Road
Tel: (02) 222 6889.
Transport: Served by numerous buses.
Opening hours: Daily 0830-1530.
Admission: B200.

Vimanmek Palace
Vimanmek Palace is the world’s largest building made entirely of golden teak. It used to be a royal summer retreat and was dismantled and rebuilt in Bangkok in 1900. The 81-room mansion stands in carefully manicured lawns, located close to the current royal residence, and contains 31 exhibition rooms. Visitors are not free to wander but must take a guided tour, which take place every 30 minutes. Highlights include Thailand’s first indoor bathroom and the oldest typewriter with Thai characters. The dress code is the same as for the Royal Grand Palace.

Ratchawithi Road
Tel: (02) 281 8166.
Transport: Served by numerous buses.
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1600 (last tour at 1515).
Admission: B50. Free once a ticket to the Royal Grand Palace has been purchased (ticket valid for 30 days).

Wat Pho (Temple of the Reclining Buddha)
Wat Pho is the oldest and largest temple in Bangkok and houses an enormous gold-plated Reclining Buddha, which is 46m (150ft) long and 15m (49ft) high. Today, it is also renowned for its teaching of herbal medicine and traditional massage.

Thai Wang Rd
Tel: (02) 222 0933.
Transport: Served by numerous buses.
Opening hours: Daily 0800-1700.
Admission: B20.

National Museum
One of the largest and most comprehensive museums in the region, the National Museum houses a vast collection of artefacts from the neolithic period through to more recent periods. The building, begun in 1782, is fascinating in its own right, having been built in traditional Thai style. The museum is so large that it needs more than one visit, but if time is short it must be spent in the lovely teak pavilion, which houses personal royal belongings. Free guided tours are given by volunteers at 0930 on Wednesdays and Thursdays and are highly recommended.

Na Phrathat Road
Tel: (02) 224 1333.
Transport: Served by numerous buses.
Opening hours: Wed-Sun 0900-1600.
Admission: B40.

Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn)
Located on the west bank of the Chao Phraya River, the 17th-century Wat Arun has a 79m-high (259ft) tower decorated with multicoloured ceramic tiles, which makes it a landmark along the river. The effect of the tiles is best observed at a distance. It was the first home of the Emerald Buddha before it was transferred to Wat Phra Kaeo in 1785. There is a nightly light and sound show between October and May.

Arun Amarin Road
Tel: (02) 465 5640.
Transport: Boat from Tha Tien Pier.
Opening hours: Daily 0700-1700.
Admission: B10.

Jim Thompson Thai House
Jim Thompson was an American who came to Bangkok after World War II and the Jim Thompson Thai House was his home until he mysteriously disappeared in Malaysia in 1967. He completely revived the Thai silk industry and his house, traditionally Thai in style, is now a museum showing his collection of Asian artefacts. The house is a complex of six traditional Thai teak structures brought to Bangkok from various parts of Thailand and its construction was completed in 1955. The house can only be visited on a guided tour.

6 Soi Kasemsan 2 Song, Rama I Road
Tel: (02) 216 7368.
Transport: Skytrain National Stadium station.
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1700 (last tour at 1630).
Admission: B100.

Royal Barge National Museum
The royal barges are rarely used by the royal family because of their age and a few of them are now preserved in the Royal Barge National Museum on the Thonburi side of the Chao Phraya River. The eight long, narrow boats on display are intricately gilded and each need between 50 and 60 rowers to take their oars. The figure on the bow of each boat signifies whether it carries the King and Queen or other members of the royal family. The most important barge is the Suphannahong, exclusively used by the King.

Khlong Bangkok Noi
Tel: (02) 424 0004.
Transport: River taxi.
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1700.
Admission: B30.

Further Distractions

Suan Pakkard Palace Museum
Suan Pakkard Palace used to be the residence of Princess Chumphot, one of Thailand’s leading art collectors. Five traditional wooden Thai houses, brought to Bangkok from around the country, are set in one of the loveliest gardens in the city. The museum houses an important collection of antiques.

Si Ayutthaya Road
Tel: (02) 245 4934.
Transport: Skytrain Victory Monument station.
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1600.
Admission: B100.

Ban Kham Thieng
Ban Kham Thieng is a 200-year-old classic northern-style teak house, brought from Chiang Mai and reconstructed in Bangkok. The house was owned by a worker and shows the simplicity of rural life in the north during the last century. It contains a collection of traditional implements used by farmers and ricefield fishermen.

131 Soi Asoke (Soi 21), Sukhumvit Road
Tel: (02) 661 6470.
Transport: Skytrain Asoke station.
Opening hours: Tues-Sat 0900-1700.
Admission: B100.

Ko Kret
Beyond the airport, 20km (12 miles) to the north of the city, Ko Kret is a tiny island community virtually untouched by the nearby metropolis. There are no roads on the island and many of its residents rely on its potteries for employment, as well

as fruit and flowers from its many plantations. The island can be reached via Highways 31 and 35, then ferry from Pak Kret Pier.

Tours of the City

Walking Tours

Although Bangkok is not really the best city for much exploration on foot, Diethelm Travel (tel: (02) 255 9150) offers a walking tour of Chinatown, called ‘Bangkok Way of Life’, which lasts 3 hours 30 minutes and costs US$17 per person as part of a group.

Bus Tours

World Travel Service (tel: (02) 233 5900) runs small group tours with free pick-ups from numerous hotels throughout Bangkok. Tours can be booked direct or through the tour desk in some hotels. Half-day city tours include the ‘Royal Grand Palace Tour’ (including Wat Phra Kaeo) and the ‘Temples Tour’ (covering Wat Pho, Wat Trai Mit and Wat Benjamabopit). Both last 3 hours 30 minutes; the ‘Royal Grand Palace Tour’ costs US$18.40, while the ‘Temples Tour’ costs US$14.20. Diethelm Travel (tel: (02) 255 9150) also offers similar tours. The Bangkok Travel Bureau (tel: (02) 225 7612) runs daily 90-minute tours past the main places of interest on a vintage-style double-decker bus. The bus leaves the Grand Palace at 0900, 1030, 1230, 1330 and 1500 hours and Vimanmek Palace at 0930, 1100, 1230, 1400 and 1630 hours. The fare is B200.

Bicycle Tours

Every Saturday at 1800 there is a three-and-a-half-hour bicycle trip around the historical heart of Bangkok, operated by the Bangkok Tourist Bureau (tel: (02) 225 7612). The tour departs from their offices at 17/1 Phra Arthit Road, Phra Nakhon and passes Sanam Luang, Wat Pho, the Democracy Monument and the Khao San Road backpacker area. The charge is B290 per person, which includes the hire of a bicycle, snacks and drinks.

Boat Tours

Bangkok is laced with khlongs (canals) and life alongside the khlongs is far removed from the hustle and bustle of downtown Bangkok. An ideal way to see this side of Bangkok is a boat trip, passing tiny temples, orchards, orchid farms and typical houses on stilts. These are organised by World Travel Service (tel: (02) 233 5900) and Diethelm Travel (tel: (02) 255 9150). Some examples of what Diethelm offers are a four-hour boat trip for US$17 per person or a full-day visit to the floating market at Damnoan Saduak for US$37.20 per person (prices as part of a group).

Excursions

For a Half Day

Rose Garden: This is a popular tourist attraction (tel: (034) 322 544; fax: (034) 322 775), 32km (20 miles) to the southwest of Bangkok. It features daily cultural shows at 1445 including dancing, Thai boxing, cock fighting and an elephant show. The resort is set in well-kept gardens and is open 0800-1800 and admission to the show is B330.

Damnoan Saduak Floating Market: Although this market is 80km (50 miles) west of Bangkok, it is far more interesting than the floating market in Bangkok, as it has not been turned into a tourist attraction. In the early morning, the narrow canals are full of small boats carrying fruit and vegetables sold by local women. The market is very colourful and atmospheric – but it is all over by 1100, which necessitates an early start from Bangkok. Although it is possible to take a bus from the Southern Bus Terminal to within a mile of the market, it is probably easier to join an organised tour from a hotel (see Tours of theCity).

For a Whole Day

Kanchanaburi: Located 122km (76 miles) from Bangkok is the site of the infamous Bridge over the River Kwai. Built by Allied PoWs during World War II, this is an area of exceptional natural beauty, with forested mountains and wooded valleys. Two immaculately maintained Allied war cemeteries are located just outside of the town. Kanchanaburi can be reached by either bus, train or by tour bus from Bangkok. The local Tourist Authority of Thailand office (tel: (034) 511 200) is open daily 0830-1630 and can provide further information.

Ayutthaya: This was the Thai capital for over 400 years until its destruction in 1767. Ruins of numerous temples and palace buildings cover a vast area. The beauty of the place is such that it was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. It is located 76km (47 miles) north of Bangkok and can be reached by bus or train or on a boat trip. The local Tourist Authority of Thailand office (tel: (035) 246 076 or 7) is open daily 0830-1630 andcan provide further information.

Shopping

Bangkok is arguably the best place in Asia for shopping and visitors will be spoilt for choice with the extensive shopping malls, department stores, small shops and markets. The city is also a bargain hunter’s paradise and haggling with street vendors is to be expected and all part of the fun enjoyed by both buyer and seller. The Silom Road area is one of the main shopping centres, which boasts numerous specialist shops and department stores, including Robinsons, several shopping plazas and a wide range of silk and antique shops, as well as many tailors. The River City Shopping Complex, adjacent to the Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel, has two floors devoted to antiques. Prices are fixed in most department stores but they do frequently offer discounts to interested buyers. The ultimate shopping experience is to be had at The Emporium on Sukhumvit withbrand-name clothing and accessories, as well as cinemas, supermarkets and restaurants. However, most visitors will head to the many street markets for their colourful atmosphere and lower prices. The Sukhumvit Road area has a street market that runs most of the day but is busiest at night. Dozens of stalls sell clothes, bags, silk items and gifts. Apart from the colourful nightlife in Patpong, the area also has a bustling night market where clothes and souvenirs are a real bargain. The weekend market at Chatuchak Park, on Phaholyothin Road, sells virtually everything that Thailand makes or grows, such as furniture, carpets, ceramics, watches, clothes, food and flowers. Chinatown is full of gold shops and the nearby cloth market at Phahurat has a huge range of superb fabrics. Woeng Nakhon Kasem, better known as the ‘Thieves’ Market’, located between Yaowarat Road and New Road, sells antique porcelain, copperware and furniture. Good buys to be found throughout the city include silk items, silver and gold, gems (rubies and sapphires are indigenous to Thailand), pearls, painted umbrellas and fans, ceramics, wickerwork, woodcarvings and leather goods. It is also an ideal place to have clothes made and the quality is of a high standard.

Many stores are open 12 hours a day, seven days a week and the street markets have even longer hours, although some are busier in the mornings and others in the evenings. A Thailand Duty Free Shop is located in the World Trade Centre on Ratchadamri Road. Tourists can pay for their purchases here and collect them at the airport immediately prior to departure from the country. Value Added Tax (7%) can be refunded on goods bought in shops labelled ‘VAT refund for tourists’, where there is a minimum transaction of B2000. VAT Refund Application for Tourists forms are completed at the time of purchase and it is necessary to show one’s passport. Cash refunds (minimum B5000) can be obtained in the airport departure hall.

Culture

Bangkok has many traditional dance and theatre groups, which perform around the city, although nowadays they are more popular with tourists than locals, who have generally embraced Western imports. The city does have its own orchestra, the Bangkok Symphony Orchestra. Western plays, with famous actors from Britain and America, are often put on for short seasons at some of the international hotels.

Both Thai and international cultural performances, including classical music, dance, ballet and pop concerts, are frequently held in the Thailand Cultural Centre, Ratchadaphisek Road (tel: (02) 247 0028), the National Theatre, Rachini Road (tel: (02)224 1342), and Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre, New Ratchadaphisek Road (tel: (02) 229 3000). Tickets can be obtained in advance from the venues.

Music and dance: Sala Rim Naam (tel: (02) 437 3080 or 6211) is owned by the Oriental Hotel and is located on the opposite bank of the Chao Phraya River, next to the Peninsula Hotel. The nightly traditional music and dance show starts at 2030, preceded by dinner at 1900. Although there are numerous traditional shows daily throughout the city, this one – reputed to be the best in Thailand and beautifully located in a traditional teak pavilion-style restaurant – is unmissable. Baan Thai (tel:(02) 258 5403), on Sukhumvit Soi 32, has a similar nightly music and dance show set in an old Thai house. The Bangkok Symphony Orchestra usually perform in the Thailand Cultural Centre (see above).

Theatre: Classical dramas are very colourful and expressive and these are held on the last Friday and Saturday of each month at the National Theatre (see above). The Bangkok Playhouse, on Phetchaburi Road (tel: (02) 319 7641), puts on modern plays each week on Friday, Saturday and Sunday nights. The Chalerm Krung Royal Theatre, on Charoen Krung (New Road) (tel: (02) 2220434), has regular performances of plays and musical dance dramas. For those fascinated by the infamous ‘Ladyboys’ or katoeys of Bangkok, there are two performances each night at the Calypso Cabaret in the Asia Hotel on Phayathai Road (tel: (02) 2150808), which are always packed out.

Film: Bangkok has a large number of cinemas but not all show English-language films. Some show movies with English soundtracks but many will have been dubbed into Thai. Cinemas that show films in English or with English subtitles include: EGV Multiplexes and Major Cineplexes, both with various venues throughout the city; Lido Multiplex, Rama I Road (tel: (02)252 6498), and United Artists ( located at Sukhumvit Soi 24 (tel: (02) 664 8711) and Ratchadaphisek Road (tel: (02) 6736060).

Bangkok in the 19th century features in the spectacular film Anna and the King (1999). The filming did not take place in the city as the Thais banned the book on which it was based (see Literary Notes below), as well as the earlier film, starring Yul Brynner, claiming that they were historically inaccurate. The James Bond movie, The Man with the Golden Gun (1974) uses Bangkok, as well as the stunning Phang Nha Bay, as a backdrop. A 2001 epic Suriyothai (directed by Prince Chatrichalerm Yukol) depicts life in the Ayutthaya period of Thai history and the story of the heroic Queen Suriyothai, with some incredible battle scenes.

Cultural events: The birthdays of the King and Queen of Thailand are widely celebrated throughout Bangkok. Preceding the King’s birthday in December is the annual Trooping of the Colour, where the Royal Guards renew their allegiance to the monarch in a colourful ceremony at the Royal Plaza. The Royal Barge Procession takes place only occasionally now because of the age of the barges, although there is a small display on the King’s birthday. The last major procession was in November 1999 to mark the 72nd birthday of the King and prior to that it was in 1996 to celebrate the King’s 50th year on the throne. The processions are incredibly spectacular and the 1999 outing saw 52 of the elegantly carved barges rowed by thousands of costumed oarsmen.

Literary Notes
A prolific writer of the darker side of ex-pat life is Christopher G Moore who often uses Bangkok as a backdrop. Particularly well known are Spirit House (1992) and Asia Hand (1993), the first two books in a series of seven titles featuring the private eye, Vincent Calvino. The latest one, Minor Wife, was published in 2002. Jake Needham’s novel, The Big Mango (1999), depicts the story of an ex-GI returning to Bangkok in search of money stolen from a Vietnamese bank. Perhaps the most famous film about Bangkok and the royal court in particular is The King and I (1956). This is based on the book Anna and the King of Siam (1944) by Margaret Landon, which is a novel adapted from The English Governess at the Siamese Court, the memoirs of Anna Leonowens, recounting her period as a governess in the court of King Mongkut. A more historically accurate account of the time can be found in The Kingdom and the People of Siam (1857) by Sir John Bowring who was responsible for negotiating the treaty with King Mongkut. Still based around the royal family, The Bangkok Secret (1990) by Anthony Grey investigates the mystery surrounding the murder of King Ananda in Bangkok in 1946 – an event that is often glossed over and the identity of the assailant is still unknown. One of the best-known residents of Bangkok was Jim Thompson, who was responsible for building a major industry – silk – and whose home is a Bangkok landmark (see Key Attractions). He mysteriously disappeared in Malaysia in 1967 and William Warren wrote a book about his life and disappearance called Jim Thompson: The Legendary American of Thailand (1976).

Nightlife

Much of Bangkok’s nightlife is concentrated in the two red light districts of Bangkok – Patpong (between Silom and Surawong Roads) and Soi Cowboy (Sukhumvit), named after the first bar that opened here called the Cowboy Bar. Bangkok’s sex industry is as blatant and booming as ever. However, in addition to the numerous sex clubs and massage parlours, there are many excellent cocktail bars and restaurants and, at night, the area is always thronging with people. Most venues are open all day and late into the night, although bars and clubs are supposed to close at 0200. Sometimes, there is an admission fee but this usually includes one or two drinks. The dress code is very relaxed, although a few of the nightclubs do enforce smarter dress.

As in any city, nightlife venues come and go and news of the latest hotspots can be found in the city’s listings magazine,.

Bangkok Metro.

Bars: The Bull’s Head, Sukhumvit 33/1, is popular with many ex-pat residents of Bangkok. It is a British-style pub, with regular quiz and theme nights. Irish pubs are popular in most cities in the world and the busy Dubliner Irish Pub on Sukhumvit (Washington Square) is no exception. A stylish watering hole is The Barbican on Soi Thaniya, Silom Road, with a good selection of drinks and good food. The attractively named Skunk, Ekamai Soi 10, Sukhumvit Soi 63, draws a regular crowd and has interesting decor, such as car parts on the walls.

Casinos: Gambling is illegal in Thailand.

Clubs: Six years after it opened its doors, Concept CM2, a huge disco and bar in the basement of the Novotel Hotel on Siam Square, continues to be very popular, in particular on Thursday, its retro night. The amazing light and sound system and ostentatious Art Deco-style interior of Narcissus, 112 Sukhumvit Soi 23, attracts the smart set keen on house, trance and techno. Ministry of Sound, 2 Sukhumvit Soi 12, has regular guest slots with internationally known DJs. The hangout for trendy locals and ex-pats is the Q Bar, 34 Sukhumvit Soi 11, which also imports top international DJs. Both clubs offer a range of music from house to hip hop.

Live music: Ad-Makers, 51 Soi Lang Suan (off Ploenchit), has live bands that play folk, pop and hard rock and the crowd often sing along. Saxophone Pub, 3/8 Victory Monument, Phayathai Road, has great acoustics, a lively atmosphere and a variety of live music including funk, jazz, blues and ska. Top-quality live bands frequent La Lunar, Sukhumvit Soi 26, which has a multi-screen video system and impressive lights and lasers. The Bamboo Bar in the upmarket Oriental Hotel is an intimate, refined club with an excellent reputation for its guest jazz bands. Radio City, Patpong Soi 1, is a great live music venue with bands playing old rock music.

Special Events

New Year’s Day, celebrations traditionally begin with merit-making in the mornings, when Buddhists take gifts of flowers, incense or donations to the temples, followed by parties and entertainment around Sanam Luang for the rest of the day, 1 Jan,Sanam Luang area The River of Kings Sound and Light Presentation, Jan/Feb, Ratchaworadit Pier on Chao Phraya River Bangkok International Film Festival, mid-Jan, throughout the city Makha Puja, Buddhist Holy day featuring various day and night candlelit ceremonies, Feb, temples around city International Kite Festival, kite fighting and demonstrations, Mar/Apr, Sanam Luang International Bangkok Motor Show, Mar/Apr, Bangkok International Trade & Exhibition Centre
Bangkok International Book Fair, Mar/Apr, Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre Bangkok Fringe Festival, innovative theatre productions, Apr, Patravadi Theatre Songkran (Thai New Year), religious ceremonies and public festivities involving lots of water, Apr Royal Ploughing Ceremony, celebration of the start of the rice-growing season, May
Asarnha Puja Day/Khao Phansa Day, commemorates Buddha’s first sermon and the beginning of Buddhist Lent, Jul, temples throughout the city
Queen’s Birthday Celebrations, public holiday with display of lights decorating public buildings, 12 Aug, throughout the city
Chulalongkorn Day, public holiday in memory of Rama V, 23 Oct
Bangkok Marathon, Nov, Sanam Chai
King’s Birthday Celebrations, public holiday with display of lights decorating public buildings, 5 Dec, throughout the city.

Sport

Bangkok and Thailand are synonymous with Thai Boxing (Muay Thai), the traditional sport of kick-boxing, where feet, knees and elbows can be used as well as fists. Its popularity means that fights are held every night of the week around the city, particularly at Ratchadamnoen Stadium, Ratchadamnoen Nok Road (tel: (02) 281 4205), on Monday, Wednesday, Thursday and Sunday nights, and Lumphini Stadium, Rama IV Road (tel: (02) 251 4303), on Tuesday, Friday and Saturday nights. Two other sports are also popular in Thailand. Kite fighting takes place in the hot season where opposing teams fly male Chula and female Pakpao kites in a surrogate battle of the sexes. Visitors can witness spectacular events most weekends at Sanam Luang. Takraw is played using a woven rattan ball where a circle of men use their feet, knees, thighs, chests and shoulders to acrobatically pass the ball to each other, endeavouring to keep it airborne and to kick it into a suspended basket. Tournaments are periodically held at Sanam Luang. The local press will have details. The Thailand football league has two divisions, the premier and the first, and the teams have names such as Air Force, Bangkok Bank, Army and Telephone Association of Thailand. Information on games can be obtained from the Football Association of Thailand (tel: (02) 216 4579). Tickets for all sporting events can be bought at the venue up to an hour before the match starts.

Golf: Thailand has many excellent golf courses and some are open to visitors. The Royal Golf & Country Club (tel: (02) 7380133), is located within easy reach of Bangkok, southeast of the city at 69 Moo 7, Sukhumvit 17, Bang Sao Thong, Samut Prakan – best reached by taxi. It has a beautiful 18-hole course, with green fees for visitors of B800 during the week and B1600 at the weekend. The Rose Garden Golf Club (tel: (034) 322 588) is located 32km (20 miles) southwest of the city at Tha Talad Sub District, Sampran, Nakhon Pathom – reached along National Highway Number 4. It has an 18-hole championship golf course with green fees of B700 during the week and B1300 at weekends (closed Mondays).

Fitness centres: Many of the centres throughout the city are attached to hotels and are for members only. However, the Rajamangala National Stadium, Ramkhamhaeng Road (tel: (02) 314 4678), has a training centre, swimming pool and aerobics classes.

Swimming pools: Siam Water Park to the north of the city, on Sukhaphiban 2 Road (tel: (02) 517 0075), has waterslides and artificial surf. Nawasri Pool, 209 Ramkhamhaeng Soi 21 (tel: (02) 318 0134), is open to non-members, as is the Rajamangala National Stadium (see above).

Tennis: Tennis clubs that open to the public include Asoke Sport Club, 302/81 Mooban Tawaamit, Asoke-Din Daeng (tel: (02) 2462260), Sawadee Soi, 35/5 Sukhumvit Soi 31 (tel: (02) 258 4502), and Central Tennis Court, 13/1 Soi Attakarn Prasit, Sathorn Tai Road (tel: (02) 213 1909).

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