City Overview

Rio de Janeiro is an awe-inspiring city of contrasts. Impossibly steep granite mountains jut out of the ocean between glorious stretches of golden sand, impeccable colonial buildings nestle in between modern glass skyscrapers and verdant forests tumble down hillsides into densely populated residential areas. It is a city high on life, a city of beach worship, football, samba and Carnival. And high above all this fun and frivolity stands Rio’s iconic landmark, the statue of Christ the Redeemer – an ever-present vision.

The continuing strength of foreign currencies against the Brazilian Real and the national football team’s success in the recent World Cup both have helped to make Brazil – and Rio in particular – an increasingly popular and affordable year-round destination. As well as the city’s well-known landmarks of Corcovado and Sugar Loaf mountains, Rio boasts a wealth of attractions and activities, plus great food, music and entertainment – enough to keep a visitor busy for any length of stay.

 

Situated in southeast Brazil, on the natural port of the Baia de Guanabara (Guanabara Bay), Rio is a city of over ten million people squeezed between the ocean and the mountains. The cidade marvilhosa (marvellous city) is a melting pot of cultures and peoples in varying degrees of wealth or poverty. In Rio, the rich and poor live together and the exclusive areas stand in stark contrast and close proximity to the slum areas or favelas. But no matter what their background or economic standing, the Cariocas – as the citizens of Rio are known – are characterised by a passion and enthusiasm for life, which is on full show during Rio’s famous annual Carnival.

Central to the Carioca lifestyle is the beach. From dawn until dusk and even after dark, the residents of Rio can be found enjoying the long stretches of sandy coastline with which the city is blessed. The beach is not merely a place to absorb the sun’s rays but also an important venue for sports, socialising and even business. It is a people-watcher’s paradise –clothing is minimal and bodies are bronzed and beautiful. The famous Copacabana and Ipanema beaches are magnets for Brazilians and tourists alike.

It has taken five hundred years for Rio to transform itself into one of the world’s greatest cities. On 1 January 1502, Portuguese explorers sailed into Guanabara Bay and named it Rio de Janeiro (River of January), under the mistaken impression that it was an enormous river mouth. The French attempted to gain control of the bay in 1555 but were finally evicted by the Portuguese in 1567.

The Portuguese colony was based on sugar cane and agricultural products throughout the 17th century, until the discovery of gold in the nearby Minas Gerais region led to the city’s emergence as a control, export and taxation centre. Black slaves formed the majority of the population in these early days of trading and the African influence is still present in the city’s culture. The capital of colonial Brazil was moved from Bahia (now Salvador) in 1763 to Rio de Janeiro and the city began to flourish, especially when coffee became the predominant export in the 19th century. After the Portuguese monarchy were exiled from Portugal due to Napoleon’s taking Lisbon, Rio became their home and eventually the capital of an independent Brazilian Empire. Finally, Brazil became a Republic in 1889 and Rio de Janeiro remained its capital until 1960, when the Federal government was transferred to Brasilia in 1960.

 

Rio has continued to grow and has become a popular destination not only for tourists but also for migrants from other parts of the country. Despite its development, the city still has more than its fair share of social problems. Strong divisions exist between the ‘haves’ and the ‘have-nots’. Attempts have been made to curtail crime, although both residents and tourists still must remain alert to petty thieves.

Rio’s best season is undoubtedly the summer months, between December and February, culminating with Carnival. Temperatures can rise to around 40ºC (104ºF) or more, which, if tourists do as the Brazilians do and visit the beaches and not rush around, is ideal weather.

City Statistics

Location: Rio de Janeiro, State of Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.
Country dialling code: 55.
Population: 6,051,399 (city).
Ethnic mix: 70% white, 20% black, 10% other.
Religion: 75% Catholic, 25% other.
Time zone: GMT - 3 (GMT - 2 from third Sunday in October to third Sunday in March).
Electricity: 110 volts or 220 volts; two round-pin plugs are standard.
Average January temp: 30°C (86°F).
Average July temp: 25°C (77°F).
Annual rainfall: 1,086mm (42.4 inches).

Cost of Living

One-litre bottle of mineral water: R$1.50.
33cl bottle of beer: R$2.
Financial Times newspaper: R$15.
36-exposure colour film: R$14.
City-centre bus ticket: R$1.60 or R$1.70 (air conditioned).
Adult football ticket: From R$12.
Three-course meal with wine/beer: From R$25.

1 Real (R$1) = £0.26; US$0.46; C$0.54; A$0.65; €0.38
Currency conversion rates as of April 2006

Getting There By Air
Galeao Antonio Carlos Jobim Airport
Airline Name Weekly Flights Book Here Contact Number
TAP 20 +55-11-2131-1200/10 (0800-707-7787)
United 14 (0800-16-2323)
VARIG 27 4003-7000
Total Weekly Flights 61

Aeroporto Internacional do Rio de Janeiro/Galeäo Antonio Carlos Jobim International Airport (GIG)
Tel: (21) 3398 4106. Fax: (21) 3398 3581.

Rio International Airport is the major gateway to Brazil, serving over six million passengers per year. It is located on Ilha do Governador, in Guanabara Bay, some 20km (13 miles) north of Rio. The airport allows easy access to the city by road.

Major airlines: Brazil’s national airline, VARIG (RG), member of the Star Alliance network, (tel: (21) 2534 0333; fax: (21)3814 5701; website: www.varig.com.br), connects Rio to international and domestic destinations. United (UA) and TAP (TP), also members of the Star Alliance network, also serve Rio de Janeiro.

Airport facilities: Facilities include a 24-hour bank, several bureaux de change, ATMs, a selection of restaurants, shops, duty free, a pharmacy, post office, 24-hour hospital, tourist information and car hire from Avis, Hertz and Localiza.

Business facilities: Business-class travellers have access to the airport’s Luxor Aeroporto hotel (tel: (21) 2468 8998; fax:(21) 3398 3983), which has business and conference facilities.

Transport to the city: Real (tel: (21) 2560 7041) operates air-conditioned buses from the first floor of the airport to Receiro dos Bandeirantes, via the city centre, Rodovâria Novo Rio bus terminal, Santos Dumont Airport (see below), Flamengo and along the seafront between Copacabana, Ipanema and Leblon, where many hotels are situated. The bus runs approximately every 30 minutes 0520-2300 (journey time – 45 minutes-1 hour) and costs R$4 from the airport to Copacabana. Fixed-rate taxis can be booked at the kiosk near the airport arrivals gate. The fare to Copacabana is R$43.

Approximate flight times to Rio de Janeiro: From London is 11 hours; from New York is 10 hours; from Los Angeles is 14 hours; from Toronto is 12 hours and from Sydney is 20 hours.

Arrival/departure tax: The international departure tax is US$30 or US$36. Domestic departure tax is R$8.25 or US$2. Both are payable upon departure, in either R$ or US$, although not a combination of the two.

Getting Around

Public Transport
There is no unified system in Rio, although SECTRAN (tel: (21) 2299 3468; oversees all forms of organised public transport.

The underground service provided by Metrõ Rio (tel: (21) 2516 1123) is safe, clean, air-conditioned, fast and efficient, although limited in the area it covers. There are two lines in operation from Monday to Saturday 0600-2300. Line 1 runs from Arcoverde (Copacabana) to Säens Pena (Tijuca), while Line 2 runs from Estacio (Centro) to Pavuna, in the north of the city. Metrõ tickets are only available for purchase at the station – R$1.47 for a single journey or R$10.70 for a book of ten tickets. Visitors are advised to keep their wits about them when emerging from stations into unfamiliar surroundings.

Buses are cheap, regular and run to all parts of the city. There is no integrated service – the main providers include Redentor, Real and Säo Silvestre. Services operate 24 hours and are relatively safe – incidences of crime are rare, although travellers must exercise caution during rush hour and at night, when pickpockets prey. Tickets are available for purchase from the conductor, who sits next to the turnstile at the back of the bus. These cost R$1.20 per journey or R$1.40 on the air-conditioned frescäo buses.

An integrated Metrõ and bus pass, called Metrõ/Õnibus, is available for R$2.50 at Metro stations.

Taxis
Yellow taxis operate with a meter and can be hailed on the street. The flag, bandeira, indicates the tariff and usually reads ‘1’. However, after 2300, on Sunday and on holidays the tariff will be ‘2’, which indicates a price hike of about 20%. Taxis are fairly priced, although some late-night drivers might quote excessive fixed prices. Travellers should check that the meter is reset and indicates the correct tariff. The minimum fare is currently R$2.50. Tourists are strongly advised to only use taxis that have an official identification sticker in the window.

Special taxis – either blue or red – operate from the airports. Payment is by pre-paid vouchers, which are available for purchase at airport kiosks.

Radio taxis are safe and reliable but 30% more expensive than yellow taxis. Providers include Central de Tâxi (tel: (21) 2593 2598), Coopertramo (tel: (21) 2560 2022) and Transcopass (tel: (21) 2560 4888). The minimum fare for radio taxis is currently R$2.50. Brazilians generally do not tip taxi drivers, although rounding the total fare up to the nearest Real is appreciated.

Limousines
Most hotels and travel agencies can provide a private car with an English-speaking guide. A reputable company is Golden Car (tel: (21) 2275 4748), which provides Rolls Royce cars with English-, Spanish- or Portuguese-speaking drivers, for R$1800 for four hours (minimum). Grace Festas (tel: (21) 2516 9297) has a fleet of Mercedes Benz mini-limousines available with English-speaking chauffeurs, for approximately R$400 per hour.

Driving in the City
With such a good public transport system, there is little need for tourists to drive in Rio. Those who attempt it need nerves of steel and a solid sense of direction to cope with the hectic traffic and confusing one-way streets. However, driving is a good option for local excursions and visiting some of the beaches further out. When driving, seatbelts should be worn and extreme caution employed. Doors should be kept locked. Rio’s traffic is a law unto itself and parking is difficult and practically impossible in the Centro. For visitors making a day trip to Rio by car, the best option is to park in a secure car park, leaving the car with an attendant. Parking in Rio is very cheap and costs from R$2 a day.

Car Hire
There are many car hire companies in Rio, including international providers. The minimum age to hire a car is 21 years, although this is sometimes even higher, depending on company policy. Insurance is essential. A credit card is usually required as security and for payment, seeing as companies are reluctant to accept traveller’s cheques or US Dollars. Drivers must be in possession of an International Driving Permit along with a driver’s licence from their country of origin.

Some major companies with car hire offices in the city include Avis, Avenida Princesa Isabel 350, Copacabana (tel: (21) 2543 8481), Hertz, Avenida Princesa Isabel 334B, Copacabana (tel: (21) 2275 7440), and Localiza, Avenida Princesa Isabel 214, Copacabana (tel: (21) 2275 3340).

Rates vary according to the model of the car and whether or not it has air conditioning. Prices start at around R$89 per day or R$525 per week for a basic car with unlimited mileage and go up to around R$359 per day or R$2149 per week for an executive vehicle with unlimited mileage. It is sometimes possible for drivers to negotiate discounts and it is usually cheaper for visitors to make an advance reservation from abroad.

Bicycle Hire
Rio has 74km (46 miles) of cycle paths that, wherever they exist, are very much preferable to riding in the city’s traffic. Most paths run alongside beaches and extend intermittently from the Marina da Glôria, Centro, through Flamengo, Copabana and Ipanema, to Barra da Tijuca. Six kilometres (four miles) of cycle paths exist in the Tijuca National Park.

Energetic visitors can hire bicycles from Special Bike, Rua Visconde de Pirajâ 135B, Ipanema (tel: (21) 2521 2696), Rua Figueiredo Magalhäes, Copacabana (tel: (21) 2257 1726), or Avenida Borges de Medeiros, in front of Tom Jobin Park, Lagoa. Prices start at approximately R$15 per day.


Business

Business Profile: Rio is Brazil’s top tourist attraction and consequently the city’s main industries revolve around tourism and the service and financial sectors. Banking is important and the city is home to the second most active Stock Exchange in Brazil, the Bolsa da Valores do Brasil. Rio has the second best economy in South America, behind that of Säo Paulo, also in Brazil. Rio is also a major player in Brazil’s industrial production and the city’s industries are responsible for producing goods such as processed foods, chemicals, pharmaceuticals, clothing, furniture and textiles.

Agriculture accounts for 11% of GDP – Brazil is the world’s largest coffee producer and exporter, as well as being the second largest exporter of soy beans. Despite its wealth and continued growth (GDP growth was 1.51% in 2001), Brazil’s inflation (7.5% September 2001-2002) and the country’s unemployment levels (7.1% in 2000) remain high. The city’s unemployment rate of 3.8% in 2000 is considerably lower than the national figure. Nevertheless, the disparity between rich and poor is wide and particularly evident in Rio, where crime has become an unofficial industry in its own right.

The economy became stable following the introduction of a new currency, the Real, in 1994. Introduced at a value level with the US Dollar, the development brought renewed confidence and an economic boom to the country. But this success came to an end when world recession and budgetary mismanagement finally led to the devaluation of the Real in 1999. The IMF soon resumed lending to Brazil and the economy bounced back against all expectations. But Argentina’s debt default and devaluation of the Peso in January 2002 led to further instability in the area. Brazil’s economy and currency looked set to follow suit, until the IMF came forward with a US$10 billion loan package that has stabilised the country for the time being. The Real is now approximately a third of the value it was in 1994.

Foreigners have been allowed to invest in the Brazilian Stock Exchange since 1996. To entice more foreign investment, the Government abolished trade restrictions, privatised industries and lowered tariffs. Due to the number of consulates in the city, many companies favour Rio as a South American base. Multinational companies and key Brazilian companies based in Rio include Shell, Texaco, Esso, Petrobras, Embratel and Petroleo Ipiraga. Most businesses are located in the Centro area of the city or in Barra de Tijuca, where Rio’s massive conference centre, Riocentro, is situated.

Business Etiquette: Business cards are exchanged by way of introduction and businesspeople expect to deal with someone of an equal business status. Business suits are necessary when meeting heads of companies or attending semi-formal social functions in exclusive clubs and restaurants. Normal business hours are Monday-Friday 0900-1800. Quite often, however, business is done over dinner in a restaurant. Visitors would be advised to bring gifts, such as local confectionery.

Brazilians are more casual than their Latin American counterparts but it is important to dress neatly and offer respect. At the beginning of a conversation, at least, strangers should always be addressed with the formal ‘o senhor’ or ‘a senhora’until they use the informal ‘tu’ or ‘vocë’. Professional people will often be heard being addressed as ‘o doutor’ (‘doctor’), whatever their line of business. Although many executives will speak English, it is advisable for business visitors to conduct business in Portuguese if possible.


Hotels

Room rates incur a sales tax of 5% and a service charge of 10% is usually added to the bill at the end of a stay. Some hotels also charge a room tax of R$3 per night. Tips to individual members of staff are made at the guest’s discretion. Tourists planning to visit Rio during Carnival or New Year should book well in advance and bear in mind that many hotels raise prices during these periods.

The prices quoted below are the lowest standard rates for a double room, excluding tax and service charge. Rates change depending on the season. Many of the more luxurious hotels do not include breakfast in their room rates and the prices below exclude breakfast, unless otherwise specified.

Business

Guanabara Palace
Situated in the hub of Rio’s commercial district, the Guanabara Palace is a reliable option for the business traveller looking for a reasonably priced hotel with a few luxurious touches. The recently renovated façade is ultra modern and the rooms are tastefully decorated, with cream bed linen and wooden floors. All are equipped with telephone, TV, mini-bar and air conditioning. For business purposes, there is a convention centre and a business centre with Internet access, while leisure facilities include a rooftop pool with fine views of Guanabara Bay. The restaurant serves up extravagant buffet meals, as well as à la carte Brazilian and international cuisine. The hotel also offers secure parking, a laundry service, 24-hour room service and the assistance of staff who speak both Portuguese and English.

Avenida Presidente Vargas 392, Centro
Tel: (21) 2216 1313. Fax: (21) 2516 1582.
Price: From R$240 (including breakfast).

Hotel Rio Internacional
Hotel Rio Internacional is unique in that all of its 117 rooms have wonderful sea views – most with private balconies. The hotel is situated in conveniently close proximity to the business district. The rooms are simply decorated with clean white walls and modern furnishings and are equipped with a safe, air conditioning, mini-bar, cable TV, radio, voice-mail telephone and a second line for Internet connection. Primarily aimed at business travellers, this beachfront hotel offers a bureau de change, three meeting rooms that can be combined into one conference space and a 24-hour business centre comprising two fully equipped offices. For relaxation purposes, a sauna, fitness centre and rooftop swimming pool are available. For wining and dining, there are two bars and the Sabor e Vista restaurant, which serves Brazilian and international cuisine. A bilingual staff provides a 24-hour room service.

Avenida Atlântica 1500, Copacabana
Tel: (21) 2546 8000. Fax: (21) 2542 5443.
Price: From R$462.

Le Meridien
This French-owned hotel is one of Copacabana’s top establishments and its close proximity to the business district makes it ideal for corporate guests. The modern structure towers over the seafront with its 496 rooms, including 54 suites, all of which have recently been refurbished in an elegant, tropical style. Business travellers can make use of the hotel’s bureau de change, convention centre and business centre – complete with meeting rooms, fax, colour printer and high-speed Internet access. Room service is available 24 hours and the staff is bilingual. Other facilities include laundry, a safe, cable TV, fitness suite, swimming pool and beach service. Live music is played in the Bar de La Paix and an executive buffet is served in the Cafe Fleuri. The 37th-floor Le Saint Honoré restaurant (see Restaurants) is considered one of the best in Rio, boasting fantastic views over the city’s best-known landmarks of Pão de Açúcar and Corcovado.

Avenida Atlântica 1020, Copacabana
Tel: (21) 3873 8888. Fax: (21) 3873 8777.
Price: From R$481.

Pestana Rio Atlântica
Convenient for Rio’s main tourist attractions and the city centre, Pestana Rio Atlântica is ideally suited to business travellers. The hotel has 218 rooms, 114 of which are luxury suites with ocean views, decorated in soft hues and natural woods and featuring a mini-bar, cable TV, telephone, Internet connection and air conditioning. Fax machines, mobile phones, computers and secretarial services are available on request and the new business centre features meeting rooms and private office space with Internet access. The hotel also boasts a rooftop pool, fitness centre, sauna, beach service, lobby bar and a recently renovated restaurant serving Portuguese and international dishes.

Avenida Atlântica 2964, Copacabana
Tel: (21) 2548 6332. Fax: (21) 2255 6410.
Price: From R$462.

Luxury

Caesar Park Hotel
Situated along the Ipanema beachfront, this elegant hotel has 193 apartments and 29 suites, all with air conditioning, cable TV, telephone and Internet connection. The rooms are spacious and airy and many have large windows with sea views. The bilingual staff provides an excellent service, which has attracted the custom of distinguished guests over the years, including King Juan Carlos of Spain, Madonna, Pavarotti, Elton John and Pelé. The wide range of facilities includes the renowned Galani restaurant (see Restaurants), a bar, a rooftop pool, a modern fitness centre, a sauna, shops, 24-hour room service and a bureau de change. Business services include a conference centre and meeting rooms. There is also a secretarial service, as well as fax machines and laptop computers available for in-room use.

Avenida Vieira Souto 460, Ipanema
Tel: (21) 2525 2525. Fax: (21) 2521 6000.
Price: From R$809.

Copacabana Palace
This elegant establishment has become almost as famous as the beachfront upon which it is located. Since it was built in 1923, many famous figures have granted their seals of approval, including Robert De Niro, Marlene Dietrich, Orson Welles and Princess Diana. The hotel is one of the grandest buildings in Rio and is protected by a preservation order. The plush interior is yet more impressive, with its marble floors, pillars, chandeliers and grand ballroom, which hosts a famous masked ball during Carnival. Facilities include a rooftop tennis court, the largest hotel pool in Rio and a well-equipped fitness centre. No two rooms are the same but all are elegantly decorated and come equipped with a safe, air conditioning, TV, telephone and Internet connection. Business travellers have use of the convention centre and a business centre, which offers laptop connection and communications. There are two restaurants – Cipriani specialises in gourmet Italian food (see Restaurants) and Pergula allows guests to dine on a variety of international dishes while seated by the pool.

Avenida Atlântica 1702, Copacabana
Tel: (21) 2548 7070. Fax: (21) 2235 7330.
Price: From R$973.

Moderate

Hotel Glória
Located near Rio’s Centro district, Hotel Glória is ideal for guests who wish to be close to the city, the airports and beaches. Built in 1922, its French-style architecture and antique interior furnishings give this hotel an aura of the past, yet its facilities are very much up to date. There are two buildings with over 600 suites and rooms, many of which have stunning views over Botafogo Bay to the Pão de Açúcar. All rooms are en suite and decorated in a traditional European style, offering cable TV, telephone and Internet access, as well as 24-hour room service. Two swimming pools (one heated), a sauna, a fitness centre, running track and a garden meditation area are also provided for guests, as well as two restaurants and a comfortable bar. Business travellers are catered for with meeting rooms and a convention centre.

Rua do Russel 632, Glória
Tel: (21) 2555 7572. Fax: (21) 2555 7282.
Price: From R$240 (including breakfast).

Rio Copa Hotel
Situated only 200m (656ft) from Copacabana beach, the Rio Copa offers easy access to the city centre and both airports. Its 110 rooms are all en suite and smart, comfortable and equipped with a mini-bar, safe, air conditioning, radio, cable TV and telephone. A buffet breakfast is served in Le Baron Restaurant, which also offers Brazilian and international snacks throughout the day. The reception staff is bilingual and able to help guests with business facilities, which include a convention room and business centre with fax and Internet access. For relaxation, the hotel has a small roof-terrace swimming pool, a sauna and some exercise bikes.

Avenida Princesa Isabel, Copacabana
Tel: (21) 2275 6644. Fax: (021) 2275 5545.
Price: From R$220 (including breakfast).

Other Recommendations

Hotel Inter-Continental Hotel
The Inter-Continental Rio is more of a resort than a hotel. Situated on the beach, in the exclusive São Conrado neighbourhood, it boasts 431 modern, luxurious and spacious rooms, each with an original tapestry woven by a Brazilian artistand many with balconies overlooking the ocean. Facilities include three swimming pools, a fitness centre, three floodlit tennis courts, a nightclub, poolside bar, cocktail lounge and three restaurants, including fine Italian dining in Alfredo di Roma (see Restaurants). Business travellers can use the fully equipped business centre, the convention centre and the meeting rooms. The hotel is ideal for the golf enthusiast, as the Gavea Golf and Country Club is situated right next door. More adventurous guests can organise a tandem trip on one of the hang-gliders or paragliders that land on the beach.

Avenida Prefeito Mendes de Moraes 222, São Conrado
Tel: (21) 3322 2200. Fax: (21) 3322 5500.
Price: From R$335.

Hotel Santa Clara
Located on a quiet street in Copacabana, Hotel Santa Clara is one of the cheaper options for comfortable, private accommodation. Rooms are decorated in bright white and blue, featuring wooden furnishings, TV, air conditioning and a communications socket for both telephone and laptop. The hotel’s owner seems to have a penchant for art and the halls are decked out with elaborate creations of modern art, while prints of famous paintings by European artists are displayed in the rooms. A continental breakfast is served and the bilingual reception staff is happy to assist guests with tours and visits to attractions.

Rua Décio Vilares 316, Copacabana
Tel: (21) 2256 2650. Fax: (21) 2547 4042.
Price: From R$105 (including breakfast).

Restaurants

The selected restaurants have been divided into five categories: Gastronomic, Business, Trendy, Budget and Personal Recommendations. The restaurants are listed alphabetically within these different categories, which serve as guidelines rather than absolute definitions of the establishments.

Sales tax of 5% and a service charge of 10–15% are added to most restaurant bills in Rio. Most credit cards are now widely accepted in the city’s restaurants, although some of the cheaper or older establishments only accept cash. It is advisable for diners to telephone the restaurant in advance, in order to check whether or not a particular card is accepted.

The prices quoted below are for an average three-course meal for one person and for a bottle of house wine or cheapest equivalent; they include sales tax but they do not include service charge.

Gastronomic

Antiquarius
Antiquarius is generally regarded as one of Rio’s best restaurants and has won several prestigious awards for its renderings of classic Portuguese dishes. As well as the elegant splendour of the interior, with its mirror-lined walls and rich furnishings, there is also an antiques shop, which diners can peruse at leisure. As far as gastronomy goes, the leg of lamb is excellent and the menu also features a wide variety of seafood creations, such as shrimp in champagne, lobster thermidor, Cascais-style seafood with rice and over 50 varieties of bacalhau (salted cod). The extensive and impressive wine list includes many fine French, Spanish and Portuguese varieties. It is wise for diners to book ahead, as the restaurant is very popular.

Rua Aristides Espinola 19, Leblon
Tel: (21) 2294 1496 or 1049. Fax: (21) 2512 5756.
Price: R$90. Wine: R$33.

Carême Bistró
This small and intimate French-style bistró, with its mirrored walls, chequered floor and silver service on crisp white tablecloths, sports an atmosphere that is refined without being too stuffy. The restaurant serves cordon bleu cuisine that changes seasonally and one of its specialities is game, which goes down well with the excellent selection of wines from the cellar. Diners can choose from starters such as salmon in garlic ginger sauce, mains that might include grilled duck breast on puréed potato with caramelised spring onions in a jus du cassis, and then a selection of desserts, such as Honfleur apple tart. Reservations are essential and are made to a strict booking schedule. Dress code is smart. No lunch. Closed Sunday and Monday.

Rua Visconde de Caravelas 113, Botafogo
Tel: (21) 2537 5431.
Price: R$80. Wine: R$24.

Cipriani
The Cipriani, one of two dining rooms in the luxurious Copacabana Palace (see Hotels), is one of Rio’s most exclusive restaurants. In this spacious room with marble floors and French windows, the chef – hailing from the famous Cipriani restaurant in Venice – serves a continually changing selection of North Italian dishes with a Brazilian twist. Tempting appetisers include classic carpaccio with black truffle sauce. Main dishes include veal filet in lemon and oregano sauce served with eggplant, while the heavenly choice of desserts includes Venetian tiramisu and bitter chocolate soufflé withcrème brûlée. The dress code is smart – coat and tie are required – and reservations are essential at the weekend.

Copacabana Palace, Avenida Atlântica 1702, Copacabana
Tel: (21) 2548 7070. Fax: (21) 2235 7330.
Price: R$130. Wine: R$42.

Claude Troisgros
The rather quirky, primrose-coloured Art Deco exterior of Claude Troisgros – named after the renowned French chef who founded it over 20 years ago – contains a surprisingly modern and sophisticated restaurant, which is one of the city’s finest venues. Although the menu is very much centred on traditional French cuisine, Troisgros has always used fresh Brazilian ingredients, which add a tropical theme to dishes. Mains include sole fillet marinated in banana juice with noisette potatoes covered in herb butter or a side of lamb in a tomato, mozzarella and basil sauce. Closed Sunday.

Rua Custódio Serrão 62, Jardim Botânico
Tel: (21) 2537 8582. Fax: (21) 2527 8775.
Price: R$70. Wine: R$60.

Le Saint Honoré
Located on the 37th floor of Le Meridien Hotel (see Hotels), this refined and classically stylish restaurant offers spectacular views of Copacabana Beach to complement the delightful French cuisine, prepared under the direction of acclaimed chef Paul Bocuse. Brazilian ingredients are used to create exquisite dishes, such as Amazonian pintado (mackerel) with mashed sweet potato and Bois de Boudran sauce or veal filet encroûte with a mushroom and garlic flan. Desserts might include tart of mango and pistachio or white chocolate and caramelised figs. The smart dress code and extensive list of fine wines and champagnes make this an ideal place for a lavish dinner. Closed Sunday.

Le Meridien, 37th Floor, Avenida Atlântica 1020, Copacabana
Tel: (21) 3873 8880. Fax: (21) 3873 8777.
Price: R$95. Wine: R$30.

Business

Alfredo di Roma
Based in the Hotel Inter-Continental Rio (see Hotels), Alfredo di Roma is an Italian restaurant with a relaxed atmosphere. It is a franchise owned by the well-known chef, Alfredo di Lello, who created the fettucine dish that bears his name. The decor is warm and bright – red walls, dark-wood floor, atmospheric lighting and leafy plants reflect the Mediterranean style of the food on offer. Diners might start their meal with a selection of Italian antipasti or mozzarella baked in a pastry crust with basil sauce, before moving on to mains like tortelli stuffed with salmon in a white wine sauce, risotto with clams flavoured with grappa or, of course, the famous Fettucine Alfredo. There is an extensive wine list and a separate menu for coffees. No lunch.

Inter-Continental Hotel, Avenida Prefeito Mendes de Morais 222, São Conrado
Tel: (21) 3323 2200. Fax: (21) 3322 5500.
Price: R$65. Wine: R$30.

Barra Grill
Located just ten minutes from Rio’s longest beach, in the neighbourhood of Barra da Tijuca, Barra Grill is one of the most popular churrascarias in the city – and deservedly so. The system is that of a typical Brazilian barbecue – waiters visit each table, carrying a platter of beef, chicken and lamb, from which diners choose as much or as little as they wish to eat, with heaps of salad from the buffet. The dining room has a relaxed atmosphere and the service is informal but attentive. Guests of Barra Grill might notice the whisky bottles lining the dark walls, serving as a testimony to the restaurant’s whisky club, where members can entrust their own, labelled bottle to the restaurant and enjoy a tipple whenever they visit. There are live shows in the bar, Tuesday to Saturday.

Avenida Ministro Ivan Lins 314, Barra da Tijuca
Tel: (21) 2493 6060.
Price: R$50. Wine: R$28.

Galani
This exclusive restaurant is located on the 23rd floor of the luxurious Caesar Park Hotel (see Hotels) so, as well as dining on sumptuous international cuisine, guests can also enjoy spectacular views of Ipanema Beach from the large windows. The decor is plain and simple, with neatly laid tables on a marble floor. Antipasti include Padano cheese in balsamic vinegar or aubergine bruschetta with mussels and salmon caviar. For mains, diners have a choice of pastas, risottos, meats and seafood, such as shrimp in saffron sauce with squid fettucine. A buffet lunch (R$52) is served daily.

Caesar Park Hotel, Avenida Vieira Souto 460, Ipanema
Tel: (21) 2525 2525. Fax: (21) 2521 6000.
Price: R$85. Wine: R$45.

Osteria dell ’Angolo
This smart Centro restaurant is popular with the city crowd for business lunches and is warm and inviting yet simple and uncluttered. There is a fine selection of north Italian dishes, including risottos, meats and pastas, such as tagliolini with scampi e zafferano (scampi with saffrron), accompanied by a wine selection that is predominantly European. The elegant atmosphere and clientele demand more formal dress. No dinner (closes 2000). Closed weekends. However, there is another Osteria dell ’Angolo located in Ipanema, which is open every day for dinner only.

Rua Teófilo Otoni 63, Centro
Tel: (21) 2253 8029.
Price: R$70. Wine: R$32.

Branch:
Rua Paul Redfern 40, Ipanema
Tel: (21) 2259 3148.

Siri Mole & Cia
This Brazilian chain specialises in exotic Bahian (northeast Brazilian) seafood dishes. The smart clientele are seated at tables laid with pressed white tablecloths and fine silverware, beside big windows that open out onto the street. The menu boasts six different varieties of moquecas (stews cooked with palm oil, coconut milk, peppers, tomatoes, coriander and other spices), including the sinfonia do mar (symphony of the sea), a bubbling fish and seafood stew prepared in this traditional Bahian fashion. These dishes are usually big enough for two or three people and are served with rice and farofa (ground manioc). The choice of wines includes Brazilian, Chilean, Argentinian and Italian.

Rua Francisco Otaviano 50, Ipanema
Tel: (21) 2267 0894 or 2523 4240.
Price: R$90. Wine: R$18.

Branch:
Avenida Rio Branco 1, Centro
Tel: (21) 2233 0107. Fax: (21) 2233 0266.

Trendy

Bar do Arnaudo
Located in a Bohemian corner of the Santa Teresa suburb, Bar do Arnaudo is a tiny bar and restaurant that is full of character. The swing doors open onto a rustic, wooden interior decorated with handicrafts and antique artwork. Wine is served in tankards, while beer and caipirinhas (the name of which translates to ‘little peasant girl’) are also available to accompany the classic dishes from northeast Brazil. Popular choices include carne do sol (sun-dried beef), feijão de corda (black beans in herb sauce) and queijo coalho (grilled cheese on sticks).

Rua Almirante Alexandrino 316B, Santa Teresa
Tel: (21) 2252 7246.
Price: R$45. Wine: R$19.

Boteco 66
Situated in an old house on a residential street, behind a leaf-covered wall, Boteco 66 has a surprisingly modern interior. It is part Paris bistro and part Rio corner bar, which reflects the tastes of its owner – the renowned French chef, Claude Troisgros (see Gastronomic above), who has adopted Brazil as his home. Troisgros has developed a simple menu of Europeanfavourites – such as steaks, pastas, risottos and gourmet burgers – all served with a hint of Brazilian flavour and finesse. The wine list is extensive and includes many French favourites as well as a selection of champagnes. The atmosphere and attentive service is unmistakably French and the clientele is appropriately sophisticated.

Avenida Alexandre Ferreira 66, Lagoa
Tel: (21) 2266 0838. Fax: (21) 2527 8775.
Price: R$50. Wine: R$30.

Via Sete Grill
This modern Centro restaurant caters for a busy lunchtime crowd of hungry workers. The colourful decor suits the vibrantatmosphere and the staff is fast, efficient and friendly. Via Sete Grill offers a selection of grilled meats – beef, lamb or chicken – served burger style with salad, potato with cream cheese and salsa. There is also a choice of filled wraps for the more health-conscious customer. No dinner. Closed weekends.

Rua Sete de Setembro 43, Centro
Tel: (21) 2221 8020.
Price: R$40. Wine: R$18.

Branch:
Rua Garcia D’Avila 125, Ipanema
Tel: (21) 2512 8100.

Zazá
The people of Rio flock to this tropical bistro in Ipanema, voted ‘one of the top 100 new restaurants in the world’ by Conde Nast Traveller magazine in 2001. The three floors of cosy dining rooms have a distinctly eastern flavour, with Moroccan carpets, exotic artefacts and low-level tables. Yet the cuisine is a mixture of Asian and Brazilian dishes. Main meals include tuna steak with passion-fruit sauce, fried, crunchy kole and jasmine rice. Or diners can take an 11-course journey through the flavours of Zazá for R$105.

Rua Joana Angélica 40, Ipanema
Tel: (21) 2247 9101 or 2247 9102.
Price: R$60. Wine: R$28.

Zuka
Bright, modern Zuka is one of the most fashionable new restaurants in Rio. The simple, wooden tables surround a sunken kitchen, where diners can watch their meals being prepared. The food is delicious but it is the presentation that lingers in the memory. Served on big rectangular plates, each dish is a work of art. The selection of grilled steaks and seafood includes shrimps in honey and ginger, with tomato chutney and fresh tagliatelle. Recommended for a light meal is the gourmet burger in dijonaise sauce, served with a pile of stacked fries and green salad.

Rua Dias Ferreira 233, Leblon
Tel: (21) 3205 7154.
Price: R$60. Wine: R$18.

Budget

Aipo & Aipim
Perhaps the best budget option for dining is one of the many quilo (kilo) or plate-by-weight restaurants that can be found throughout the city. Among these individual and chain restaurants, Aipo & Aipim is one of the most popular. The restaurant is decorated with warm, harvest colours and diners eat at basic tables reminiscent of school canteens. The format is the same as any other quilo restaurant – diners pick up a plate, load it with a choice of ingredients from the salad bar and hot plates, then place it on the scales and receive a ticket to be paid after eating. It is simple, efficient and very cheap. Aipo &Aipim has the added advantage of also having a churrascaria, which serves freshly barbecued fish and meat. Other dishes available include basil farfalle and Brazilian beef jerky with cheese. Diners also can select from tempting desserts, which are carried around on a tray.

Avenida Nossa Senhora Copacabana 391, Copacabana
Tel: (21) 2255 6285.
Price: R$10. Wine: Unlicensed.

Branches:
Avenida Nossa Senhora de Copacabana 605, Copacabana
Tel: (21) 2549 2215.
Avenida Nossa Senhora de Copacabana 920, Copacabana
Tel: (21) 2547 2101.
Avenida Nossa Senhora de Copacabana 1175, Copacabana
Tel: (21) 2513 2403.
Rua Visconde de Pirajá, Ipanema
Tel: (21) 2267 8313.

Casa da Feijoada
The feijoada – Brazil’s national dish, introduced by African slaves who were brought over by the Portuguese in the 16th century – is a filling concoction of simmered meats, including pig’s ear, pig’s trotters, dried sausage, salt-cured pork and beef tongue, which are made into a type of stew, along with black beans, spices and orange juice. Although it is traditionally eaten on Saturday, Casa da Feijoada serves up the dish on a daily basis and diners can choose the specific ingredients they wish to be incorporated into their portion. For those who prefer something a little lighter, other Brazilian dishes are also on offer, including marinated chicken or prawns with coconut milk, as well as a delicious selection of traditional desserts, such as doce de abóbora com coco (sweet pumpkin with coconut) and doce de leite (caramel rice pudding). The decor, too, is a celebration of Brazil’s national heritage. The walls are painted green and yellow – the two colours of the national flag – and are lined with pictures of the early slaves preparing the feijoada.

Rua Prudente de Moraes 10B, Ipanema
Tel: (21) 2247 2776.
Price: R$35. Wine: R$14.

Celeiro
The organic restaurant, Celeiro, is always packed with people enjoying its very healthy but nonetheless tasty cuisine. The decor reflects the natural ingredients used, with rustic wooden panelling and skylights built into the ceiling. The pay-by-weight buffet offers an extensive array of scrumptious salads. There are also hot dishes on the menu, including a variety of pastas. Delectable desserts include truffles, chocolate mousse cup and crunchy mango. No dinner. Closed Sunday.

Rua Dias Ferreira 199, Leblon
Tel/fax: (21) 2274 7843.
Price: R$28. Wine: Unlicensed.

Mr Ôpi
Mr Ôpi is another of the quilo (kilo) restaurants, although this one serves gourmet food at slightly higher prices to a predominantly lunchtime crowd of city workers. The decor is elegant and inviting and the smart waiters in pressed white uniforms spoon selected dishes ‘canteen style’ onto plates. One side of the buffet bar serves freshly cooked fish, meats, pies, rice and potatoes, while the other serves Brazilian specialities, such as feijoada (meat and bean stew). Ingredients and recipes change daily and desserts and drinks are picked up en route to the till, where the plate is weighed. No dinner (closes 2000). Closed weekends.

Rua da Alfândega 91D, Centro
Tel: (21) 2224 5820.
Price: R$20. Wine: Unlicensed.

Branch:
Rua da Quitanda 51, Centro
Tel: (21) 2507 3859.

Pizzaria Guanabara
A good selection of tasty pizzas is served in this simple pizzeria. The restaurant spills out onto the pavement, with a line of large green plants separating the diners from the cars. The interior is comfortable and informal and a mural of the Rio landscape dominates one wall. As well as the usual margherita (cheese and tomato) and quattro formaggi (four cheese) options, diners can tantalise their palates with sweet pizza toppings, such as banana or peach. Steaks, seafood and paellas also feature on the menu. The busy road outside might be somewhat distracting but the low prices, down-to-earth atmosphere and late –or rather early – opening hours (until 0400) have made this venue one of the most popular in the affluent Leblon district.

Avenida Ataulfo de Paiva 1228, Leblon
Tel: (21) 2294 0797.
Price: R$35. Wine: R$15.

Personal Recommendations

Bira
It is a long trek to this restaurant in Barra da Guaratiba, on the western edges of the city. However, it is definitely worth the effort. Diners with time and transportation will be rewarded with some of the best Bahian cooking in the Rio area. Specialities from the menu of dishes from northeast Brazil include moqueca (a seafood stew cooked in coconut milk, peppers, coriander and palm oil), which is cooked in an earthenware pot and served bubbling hot at the table. It is usually eaten with rice, sprinkled with farofa (manioc flour) and a hot pepper sauce and is best washed down with a caipirinha made with fresh maracujá (passion fruit). All this is served on a wooden verandah, surrounded by thick vegetation, overlooking a large lagoon. Tiny monkeys sometimes descend from the trees to see what the diners have overlooked.

Estrada Da Vendinha 68A, Barra da Guaratiba
Tel: (21) 2410 8304.
Price: R$60. Wine: R$30.

Cervantes
This Copacabana bar is a great place for visitors to sit or stand with the locals and enjoy a refreshing glass of chopp (beer). It is an old-fashioned venue with frosted windows but has a lively atmosphere. Smartly dressed waiters serve drinks, simple plates and sandwiches to a mixed crowd of customers who drop in at any time of the night for a snack (open until 0500). Meals include filet mignon with broccoli rice, while sandwiches (costing from R$3.50 to R$9.50) feature a variety of meats wrapped in bread with a slice of pineapple. Closed Monday.

Avenida Prado Júnior 335, Copacabana
Tel: (21) 2275 6147.
Price: R$30. Wine: R$18.

Confeitaria Colombo
Walking off the streets of modern Centro into the Confeitaria Colombo is much like stepping back in time. The plush interior of Belgian mirrors, curved glass cabinets and Italian marble counters set the scene of an early 20th-century café where Rio’s high society took afternoon tea. Today, a steady stream of city workers, businesspeople and tourists treat themselves to a special lunch in the opulent interior of one of the city’s finest historic landmarks. The surroundings are best viewed from the upstairs gallery, beneath the exquisitely patterned glass roof. The buffet lunch consists of an appetising selection of salad, meat, fish and rice dishes, followed by mouth-watering cakes and pastries, for which the Confeitaria is deservedly famous. A traditional feijoada (meat and bean stew) buffet is served on Friday. À la carte meals are also available. No dinner. Closed Sunday.

Rua Gonçalves Dias 32, Centro
Tel/fax: (21) 2232 2300.
Price: R$35 (buffet) or R$75 (à la carte). Wine: R$22.

Doce Delicia
Although Doce Delicia appears classy and upmarket, this restaurant is reasonably priced. It has a welcoming Asiatic theme with its wicker furniture, bamboo walls and calming waterfall features, which cascade like curtains in the middle of the restaurant. The walls are hung with modern paintings and interesting candleholders are scattered throughout the room. Smart, efficient waiters serve simple dishes infused with Brazilian flavour and flair. There are fixed-price plates, daily specials and low-calorie options, including the exquisite Salmão al Limone served with potato noisettes and vegetables. The cakes are as delicious and rich as they look and should not be missed.

Rua Dias Ferreira 48, Leblon
Tel: (21) 2249 2970.
Price: R$35. Wine: R$28.

Branches:
Rua Anibel de Mendança 55, Ipanema
Tel: (21) 2259 0239.
Rua do Ouvidor 60, Centro
Tel: (21) 2262 5200.
São Conrado Fashion Mall, Estrada da Gávea
Tel: (21) 2420 4943.
Shopping Tijuca, Avenida Maracanã 987, Tijuca
Tel: (21) 2284 0455.

Shirley
What started as a front-room eating place serving home-cooked food has grown into one of Rio’s most popular seafoodrestaurants. This unassuming restaurant – hidden away down a side street, just one block from Copacabana beach – serves a superb range of fish, squid and shellfish dishes. Popular choices include lobster thermidor (R$76), shrimps cooked any which way, fish stew and fish Bahian style. The cosy wood panelling and weathered sea-inspired artwork give the restaurant an authentic and homely atmosphere. No credit cards.

Rua Gustavo Sampaio 610, Leme
Tel: (21) 2275 1398.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview: Rio’s main attraction is its scenery. There is a stunning view at every turn, as steep granite mountains, such as Corcovado and Päo de Aèûcar, rise dramatically above Centro skyscrapers and curved golden beaches. And it is on these beaches – the most famous of which are Copacabana and Ipanema – that the energetic and leisurely lifestyle of the Cariocas is constantly on show. But the city is also brimming with a wealth of cultural attractions.

Rio is divided into three zones – the Centro, Zona Norte (north) and Zona Sul (south). Maracanä Stadium is located in Zona Norte. Many of Rio’s historic buildings and its museums and galleries are located in and around the Centro. Rio’s biggest attractions, including its beaches, are found in Zona Sul. Because Rio’s districts are spread out, it is best for tourists to take public transport to a particular area and explore on foot. Although security has been stepped up in many areas, thanks to the increased numbers of tourist police, visitors are still advised to keep their wits about them and carry only the minimum amount of money and possessions required.
Tourist Information: Riotur – Empresa de Turismo do Municipo do Rio de Janeiro
Rua da Assembleia 10-9, Centro
Tel: (21) 2217 7575. Fax: (21) 2531 1872.
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1800.

Other branches and booths are located at both airports, the Novo Rio bus terminal, Rio Sul Shopping Centre and Avenida Princesa Isabel 183, Copacabana.

Alõ Rio (tel: (21) 2542 8080 or 0800 707 1808) is a tourist information service in English and/or Portuguese, operating Monday-Friday 0900-1800.

Passes
There are no tourist passes currently available.

Key Attractions

Corcovado (Hunchback)
The Corcovado (Hunchback) mountain, so named because of its distinctive shape, is home to probably the most memorable and identifying image of the city – that of the Cristo Redentor (Christ The Redeemer) statue. Inaugurated in 1931, the statue has become an immensely popular visitor attraction and icon for Rio, standing as it does on top of the 710m (2330ft) mountain. French sculptor Paul Landowski created the statue that stands 30m (99ft) high and has an eight-metre (26ft) pedestal containing a chapel capable of holding 150 people.

A road goes almost all the way to the top of Corcovado, although the site is best visited by the train, which travels a steep track through the forest to a station just below the summit (journey time – 20 minutes). If weather permits, there are stunning views of the city, beaches and the whole bay area below. After dark, floodlights illuminate the statue, providing a dramatic and spectacular sight visible throughout the city.

Corcovado Railroad Station
Rua Cosme Velho 513, Cosme Velho
Tel: (21) 2558 1329.
Transport: Buses 180, 181, 182, 183 or 184 from Centro and Flamengo, or bus 583 or 584 from Botafago, Copacabana and Ipanema (marked Cosme Velho).
Opening hours: Daily 0830-1900; first train up 0900, last train down 1830 (departures every 30 minutes).
Admission: R$20 including train and entry.

Päo de Aèûcar (Sugar Loaf)
This conical mountain vies with the Corcovado for the visitor’s vote of best overall panoramic view. Originally called Pau-nh-Aèquâ (high, pointed peak) by the Tupi Indians, it was renamed Päo de Aèûcar (Sugar Loaf) by the Portuguese, who thought the shape of the 394m (1293ft) granite rock resembled moulds used to set sugar cane.

Climbers frequently ascend the rock but the less strenuous and most popular route to the top is by cable car – a system that has been in operation since 1912. The present Italian-style cars complete the journey in two stages. The first leg of the ascent takes visitors from Praia Vermelha to a height of 220m (720ft) above sea level, stopping at the summit of Morro da Urca. The second leg completes the journey to the Sugar Loaf over a distance of 750m (2460ft). The final stop offers fine views of the beaches, the city, the mountains of Tijuca National Park and the islands of Guanabara Bay. The area also has several, safe, wooded trails, where it possible for one to escape the great portion of the tourists who frequently arrive at the summit.

Päo de Aèûcar cable car station
Avenida Pasteur 520, Praia Vermelha
Tel: (21) 2546 8400. Fax: (21) 2542 1641.
Transport: Bus 107 from Centro, Flamengo and Botafogo; bus 511 or 512 from Copacabana, Ipanema and Leblon.
Opening hours: Daily 0800-2200.
Admission: R$24.

Copacabana
A large suburb of Rio, Copacabana is best known for its amazing, wide, sandy beach that stretches for four kilometres (2.4 miles). The beach is hugely popular with both residents and tourists and usually lies beneath a mass of beautiful and fit bodies. Carioca girls, in minimalist bikinis, bask in the scorching sun alongside families with their youngsters. The beach is always a mass of activity. Displaying the Brazilians’ passion for sport, joggers and power walkers use the trademark wavy black and white mosaic path that lines the beach, cyclists whizz by in the cycle lane and the soccer fields and volleyball courts are in constant use. Strong currents can prove dangerous for swimmers, although an excellent lifeguard system exists.

The fishing community of Copacabana only became part of Rio when the Light and Power Company of Canada blasted through rock to establish tunnels for the Rio Tramway. In 1923, the Copacabana Palace Hotel was inaugurated and it quickly became a pivotal point in the area’s activities. The establishment of other hotels, nightclubs and casinos attracted the rich and famous during the 1930s and 1940s, although the area fell in popularity when gambling was made illegal in 1946. Housing became important and Copacabana became significant both commercially and residentially. Once the ground surface area had been fully utilised, the only way to build was upwards. Nowadays, hotels and apartment blocks dominate the skyline along the busy avenues and crowded beach. It is advisable for visitors to take the very minimum of possessions and money, seeing as the white, pasty-looking tourist is an obvious target for petty thieves.

Tunel Novo to Avenida Atlãntica (along the beach)
Transport: Arcoverde Metrõ station; buses 119, 121, 123, 127, 128, 173, 177 or 512.

Ipanema
This sophisticated neighbourhood is an enticing blend of beach, bars and boutiques, which became famous worldwide with the success of the song, The Girl from Ipanema. The song was written by composer Tom Jobim and lyricist and poet Vinicius de Moraes, who were inspired by local beauty Heloisa Pinheiro, who walked past the Velosa Bar each day when returning from school. The very bar where they sat, now known as Garota de Ipanema (Girl from Ipanema), is a popular meeting place for locals and a place of pilgrimage for visitors.

The focus of Ipanema is undoubtedly the beach, which is nestled between Aproador and Leblon beaches, beneath the imposing peak of Pedra Dois Irmäos. Like Copacabana, many people visit Ipanema to exercise or lie on the sand. But shopping is also a popular pastime and the area boasts a variety of fashionable and expensive shops. Ipanema is also home to art galleries, a Sunday arts and crafts market known as the Hippie Fair and workshop museums for jewellery shops Amsterdam Sauer and H Stern.

Avenida Atlãntica to Ipanema
Transport: Buses 474, 523, 572, 583 or 584 (marked Ipanema or Leblon).

The Centro (The Centre)
The Centro provides a worthwhile break in the beach-life itinerary, for example, the square, Praèa 15 de Novembro, where the 18th-century Paèo Imperial (Imperial Palace) and other grand buildings are located. Another interesting aside is the Museu Historico Nacional (National History Museum), which dates from 1762 and contains a fascinating collection of art, papers, weapons and other assorted artefacts documenting Brazil’s history. Many churches are scattered around the area too. One of the most impressive is the Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Candelâria (Church of Our Lady of the Candles), with its domed roof, marble interior, Portuguese wood carvings and fascinating stained-glass windows. The Mosteiro de Säo Bento (Monastery of St Benedict) is a 17th-century monastery and UNESCO World Heritage Site, with an opulent interior of gilded wood carvings and historic paintings. Art lovers will appreciate the Museu Nacional de Belas Artes (National Museum of Fine Arts), where paintings by Brazil’s most prominent 19th- and 20th-century artists are exhibited along with examples of African and folk art.

The Centro
Transport: Cinelãndia, Carioca or Uruguaiana Metrõ stations; any bus marked Centro.

Paèo Imperial
Praèa 15 de Novembro 48
Tel: (21) 2533 4407.
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1200-1700.
Admission: Free.

Museu Historico Nacional
Praèa Marechal Ãncora
Tel: (21) 2220 2328.
Opening hours: Tues-Fri 1000-1730, Sat and Sun 1400-1800.
Admission: R$5.

Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Candelâria
Praèa Pio X
Tel: (21) 2234 2324.
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0800-1600, Sat and Sun 0800-1200.
Admission: Free.

Mosteiro de Säo Bento
Rua Dom Gerardo 68
Tel: (21) 2291 7122.
Opening hours: Daily 0800-1100 and 1430-1800.
Admission: Free.

Museu Nacional de Belas Artes
Avenida Rio Branco 199
Tel: (21) 2240 0068.
Opening hours: Tues-Fri 1100-1700, Sat and Sun 1300-1700.
Admission: R$4.

Maracanä Stadium
The Maracanä Stadium is the epicentre of Brazilian football and a major place of pilgrimage for sports fans from around the world. Also known as the Journalist Mârio Filho Stadium, Maracanä became the world’s biggest stadium, capable of holdingaround 200,000 people, when it was built to host the 1950 World Cup Final. Tours of the stadium include a visit to the changing rooms, access to the stands for a view of the pitch and the opportunity to stand in the bronzed footprints of Pelê.

Football is a national obsession and even local matches are oversubscribed. Matches take place here up to three times a week, with evening kick-offs (see Sport). The atmosphere in the stadium during games is unique to Rio and an experience to remember. The almost Colosseum-like surroundings serve as a fitting venue for a multitude of fireworks, colourful flags, banners and the sounds of samba drums and whistles. The arena has also been used as the location for an address by Pope John Paul II. Frank Sinatra performed here in 1980. When Paul McCartney sang at the stadium in 1991, he gained an entry in the Guinness Book of Records for achieving the largest live audience ever for a solo singer.

Rua Prof. Eurico Rabelo, Maracanä
Tel: (21) 2568 9962.
Transport: Maracanä Metrõ station on Line 2; bus 238 or 239 from Centro, 455 from Copacabana, 464 from Ipanema and Leblon.
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1700; match days 0800-1100.
Admission: R$3 (non-match).

Further Distractions

Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas (Rodrigo de Freitas Lagoon)
This lake is a huge open space in the middle of the city, offering fantastic views over the Ipanema skyline and jagged mountains, including Corcovado and Christ the Redeemer, which stand guard above. At the weekend, visitors can join the city’s residents for a stroll or cycle on some or all of the eight kilometre (five-mile) path that surrounds it. There are a number of parks, exercise stations and leisure facilities positioned around Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas. Visitors can join families on the lake, by hiring one of the swan-shaped pedaloes. Nearby is the Jardim Botãnico, a landscaped garden containing over 8000 Brazilian and imported species of flora. In the evening, the lakeside remains alive, as people dine at the 25 kiosks, each serving a different cuisine from various parts of Brazil or around the world. Some also provide live music for entertainment.

Bordered by Leblon, Ipanema, Jardim Botãnico and Botafogo districts
Transport: Bus marked Leblon, Ipanema or Jardim Botãnico (visitors should hop off at the lake or take a map and walk from these communities).

Jardim Botãnico
Rua Jardim Botãnico
Tel: (21) 2294 9349.
Transport: Bus marked Jardim Botãnico.
Opening hours: Daily 0800-1700.
Admission: R$4.

Museu Internacional do Arte Naif (International Naive Art Museum)
The Museu Internacional do Arte Naif contains one of the most comprehensive collections of naive art (folk art) in the world. The simplistic, colourful exhibits line the walls inside a historic mansion, situated next door to Corcovado Railroad Station. The museum displays a selection of its collection of over 8000 works of folk art, which were created between the 14th century and the present day by artists from Brazil and 130 other countries. Works include a huge painting depicting Rio de Janeiro and Guanabara Bay, as well as a mural that tells the history of Brazil and is the largest naive art canvas in the world. The museum also displays temporary exhibits by renowned naive artists throughout the year.

Rua Cosme Velho 561, Cosme Velho
Tel: (21) 2205 8612. Fax: (21) 2205 8884.
Transport: Buses 180, 181, 182, 183 or 184 from Centro and Flamengo, or bus 583 or 584 from Botafogo, Copacabana and Ipanema (marked Cosme Velho).
Opening hours: Tues-Fri 1000-1800, Sat and Sun 1200-1800.
Admission: R$4.

Tours of the City

Walking Tours
A number of companies provide specialist guided walks in Rio, available on request. Aventuras Rio (tel: (21) 3813 0312 or 9699 9633) specialises in walks along one or more of the Tijuca forest’s 200 trails, passing mountains, ruins and waterfalls. The price is R$75 for a four-hour Tijuca hiking trip, including transportation. Rio Hiking (tel: (21) 9271 0594) also provides English-language guided walks in Tijuca forest and up Rio’s mountain peaks. The price for a day trip of approximately five to eight hours, including an ascent of Tijuca Peak, is R$165. Pick-up and transportation to Tijuca is included.

Favela Tour (tel: (21) 3322 2727) offers guided tours to some of Rio’s favelas (slum communities), revealing a different and spirited perspective on life in the city. The three-hour tour costs R$45 per person and hotel pick-up can be arranged.

Jeep Tours
Several companies offer jeep tours to out-of-the-way attractions. Rio by Jeep (tel: (21) 9693 8800 or 2575 8626) specialises in in-depth tours of Tijuca National Park and out-of-town beaches. Rio by Jeep offers two ecological tours of Tijuca forest. The National Park tour takes three and a half hours and costs US$30, while the Complete Tour is longer, at five and a half hours, costing US$40. Hotel pick-up can be arranged.

Jeep Tour (tel: (21) 2589 0883 or 2522 1620 (24-hour information)) offers a number of different jeep tours, as well as walking tours, panoramic helicopter tours and combined tours in Rio and further afield. A four-hour tour of Tijuca forest costs US$35, while a three-hour tour of the Favela de Rocinha – the largest slum in South America – costs US$30. Hotel pick-up can be arranged.

Helicopter Tours
For a bird’s eye view of the city, Helisight (tel: (21) 2511 2141) offers sightseeing flights of various lengths and itineraries. A 15-minute flight covers the city centre, the Sambôdromo, Maracanä stadium, Corcovado and the statue of Christ, Päo de Aèûcar and Copacabana and Ipanema beaches for R$250. Departures are from one of three helipads, located at Rodrigo de Freitas Lagoon, Dona Marta Belvedere (access routed to the statue of Christ) and Sugar Loaf (cable car’s first stop). Helipads are open daily 0900-1800 and night flights are also available from the Sugar Loaf and Rodrigo de Freitas Lagoon helipads.

Boat Tours
Saveiros Tour (tel: (21) 2224 6990) operates a cultural boat tour around Guanabara Bay, providing a unique viewpoint of the city and Niterôi island. The two-hour trip departs from the Gloria Marina at 0930 Tuesday-Sunday. Tickets cost R$20 and are available for purchase at the Marina.

Excursions:

For a Half Day

Parque Nacional da Tijuca (Tijuca National Park): Occupying an area of 120 sq kilometres (46 sq miles), Tijuca National Park (tel: (21) 2492 2252) is the world’s largest urban forest and Brazil’s only inner-city national park. The thick vegetation tumbles down steep hillsides into the backdoors of many of Rio’s neighbourhoods. Much of the forest was cleared for coffee plantations in the 19th century but a successful reforestation project has restored the Atlantic Rainforest habitat, home to hundreds of species of plants and wildlife. Natural attractions include eucalyptus, jacaranda and jakfruit trees, forest flowers, many species of bird, plus ocelots, monkeys, insects and reptiles. There are also many waterfalls, grottoes and high viewpoints to be discovered. There are hundreds of walking trails through the forest. Paths are well signposted and maps are available at the park entrance. For travellers who do not want to go alone, many companies offer guided walks (see Tours of the City). There are also six kilometres (3.7 miles) of cycle paths to be explored. If all this sounds too strenuous, there are various picnic spots and lookout points for relaxation and enjoyment of the fresh air and natural surroundings.

Buses marked Boa Vista, such as bus 231 from Centro or 454 from Copacabana, go to Tijuca. The entrance to the park is at Praèa Afonso Viseu, Alto da Boa Vista. The park is open daily 0600-2100 and admission is free.

For a Whole Day

Paraty: An enchanting colonial town approximately 400km (250 miles) south of Rio, Paraty has been declared an UNESCO World Heritage Site. The town’s churches, squares and townhouses with flourishing courtyards are still much as they were when Paraty was a chief port for the export of gold and coffee in the 17th and 19th centuries respectively. The winding, cobbled streets are open only to bicycles, horses and pedestrians and are surrounded by a wealth of old buildings containing appealing art galleries, restaurants and handicraft shops. The town sits on the ocean and is backed by lush Atlantic Rainforest. The most imposing church in town is the Nossa Senhora dos Remêdios. Originally built for the white elite, it now contains works of art by local artists. Approximately a 20-minute walk north of the old town is the Forte Defensor Perpêtuo, on the Morro de Vilha. Its purpose in 1703 was to defend Paraty from gold-plundering pirates but today it houses the Museu de Artes e Tradicoes Populares.

From Rio, Paraty is best reached by car or bus. Nine buses leave daily from the Novo Rio Rodoviâria in Rio. The journey takes approximately four hours and 30 minutes, although is much quicker by car. No vehicles are allowed in the old town itself, however. Centro de Informaèöes Turisticas, Avenida Roberto Silveira, Paraty (tel: (24) 3371 2148), can provide further information.

Shopping

People don’t generally visit Rio specifically for its shopping prowess. Typical Brazilian wares are thin on the ground, with shops orientated towards tourists, selling the usual T-shirts and resort-type souvenirs. Nevertheless, Rio is the place to invest in good-quality beach and swimwear. Fashion clothes shops are increasingly common and Rio is also recommended for antiques and jewellery. Brazilian soccer shirts make great gifts. Official shirts are available from sports shops and are of a higher quality and more expensive than the cotton replicas found in clothes shops or for sale on the street.

The main shopping streets in Copacabana are Nossa Senhora de Copacabana and Rua Barata Ribeiro, and in Ipanema, Rua Visconde de Pirajâ and in Leblon, Avenida Ataulfo de Paiva. Rio has over 30 shopping centres located throughout the city, most of which contain supermarkets, department stores, fashion boutiques and music outlets, as well as places to grab something to eat. The most central is Rio Sul, Rua Lauro Muller 116, in Botafogo. Other options include the Säo Conrado Fashion Mall, Estrada da Gâvea 899, Säo Conrado, and Shopping Center de Copacabana, Rua Siqueira Campos 143, Copacabana.

Rio also has plenty of good bookstores, many with pleasant cafês located inside. One of the best is Livraria da Travessa, with branches at Travessa do Ouvidor 11A, Centro, Avenida Rio Branco 44, Centro, and Rua Visconde de Pirajâ 462A, Ipanema.

Good-quality arts and crafts are available at regular outdoor markets, which are colourful and entertaining places for tourists to visit. The Babilõnia Hype Fair at Tribune C of the Brazilian Jockey Club Racetrack (tel: (21) 2263 8629), is open over most weekends and gathers together over 150 fashion, art and decoration-themed stalls, also featuring music and dance performances. The Hippie Fair takes place every Sunday (0900-1800) around the 18th-century Saracuras Fountain in Ipanema.

Stalls feature handicrafts and artwork. The fair is a major attraction for both visitors and locals alike. Antique fairs occur in various parts of the city, every weekend. However, the Rio Antiques Fair (tel: (21) 2252 2669), located on the Rua do Lavradio, Centro, is held for two weeks every month and provides an excellent opportunity for treasure hunting on this neo-classical street, which was the home and meeting place for the artists, poets, politicians, typographers and writers who have shaped Rio’s history.

Jewellery shops H Stern, Rua Visconde de Pirajâ 490, Ipanema (tel: (21) 2259 7442), and Amsterdam Sauer, Rua Garcia D’Ávila, Ipanema (tel: (21) 2512 1132), have branches throughout the city, as well as outlets in most of the upmarket hotels, selling intricate and elegant silver, pearl and gemstone designs. Shops are usually open Monday-Friday 0900-1900 and Saturday 0900-1300, although hours vary according to the location and type of business. Shopping centres are generally open daily 1000-2200, although some have more limited hours on a Sunday. ICMS (sales tax) in shops is 18%. There is no tax refund scheme in Brazil.

Culture

Rio is and always has been a highly cultured city. The high density and rich ethnic mix of the population has given shape to all forms of artistic expression, which is evident in the music, dance and lifestyle of the Cariocas – especially during Carnival. There are many cultural centres, art galleries and performance venues in Rio, hosting an ever-changing series of events. The Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil, Rua Primeiro de Marèo 66, Centro (tel: (21) 3808 2000 or 2020), is one of the city’s prime venues for music, plays, exhibitions and films. The Rio Show magazine in the Friday edition of the O Globo newspaper has weekly cultural listings. Tickets are available for purchase at the venue box offices and, for some events, through Ticketmaster (tel: (11) 6846 6000).

Music: The Brazilian Symphony Orchestra is based in Rio, performing at various venues in the city. The Theatro Municipal, Praèa Floriano, Centro (tel: (21) 2299 1717 or 2262 3935), which has its own orchestra, is the venue for classical concerts and operas.

Theatre: Rio has over 60 theatres, cultural centres, museums and cafês designated as spaces for the performing arts. Venues include the 200-seater Museu Nacional de Belas Artes, Avenida Rio Branco 199, Centro (tel: (21) 2240 0068), and the Maison de France, Avenida Carlos 58, Centro (tel: (21) 2262 7527), as well as the Theatro Municipal (see above).

Dance: Rio’s ballet company, Ballet do Theatro Municipal, is based at the Theatro Municipal (see above). Samba is prevalent throughout the city. An elaborate Carnival-style samba show is performed daily from 2200 at Platforma 1, Rua Adalberto Ferreira 32, Leblon. At Asa Branca, Avenida Mem de Sâ 17, Lapa (tel: (21) 2224 2342), Adelzon Alves offers samba de raiz (root samba). Other famous dance halls (gafieiras) in which visitors can sample samba or tango include Elite, Rua Frei Caneca 4, Centro (tel: (21) 2232 3217), and Estudantina, Praca Tiradentes 79 (tel: (21) 2232 1149).

Film: Cariocas are ardent cinema-goers, whether they are watching Brazilian or foreign films. American and European films are released quickly and are screened in the original language with Portuguese subtitles. Mainstream cinemas are situated throughout the city, including Roxy, Avenida N S de Copacabana 945, Copacabana (tel: (21) 2236 6245), and Cinema Largo do Machado, Largo do Machado 29 (tel: (21) 2205 6842). The arthouse cinema chain, Estaèäo (tel: (21) 2537 1112), shows an up-to-date selection of international films and has branches all over the city, including the Botafogo, Centro and Leme districts. Cinema tickets cost around R$12.

The most famous film set in Rio is probably the Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers classic, Flying Down to Rio (1933), which was filmed in the Copacabana Palace Hotel. More recently, Bossa Nova (1999), with Antonio Fagundes, was set in Rio. Carlos Diegues’ Orfeu (1999) and the 1959 Marcel Camus classic and award-winning Black Orpheus are both celluloid renderings of Vinicius De Moraes’ play, which retells the Greek myth of Orpheus, set in the delirium of Rio’s Carnival.

Cultural events: The biggest cultural event in Rio is undoubtedly Carnival, which takes place annually in late February or early March, over the days running up to and including Shrove Tuesday. People from all over the world are attracted, in their hundreds of thousands, to Rio’s annual orgy of grandiose fun and frivolity. Balls and street parties are held throughout the city during this frenetic period. Masquerade balls became popular with Rio’s elite in the mid-19th century and the poorer sections of society, not to feel excluded, popularised street celebrations with bands and parades. The main event now takes place in the purpose-built Sambôdromo, where samba schools compete with music, costume, story, song, rhythm and dance in front of judges and up to 90,000 spectators. Tickets are available from Riotur (tel: (21) 2217 7575), local travel agencies and banks. Advance booking is highly advisable.

Literary Notes
Brazilian literature remains largely untranslated into English. Jorge Amado is probably Brazil’s most internationally famous novelist. Works to look out for include Blues For A Lost Childhood (1989), in which Antonio Torres depicts the life of a journalist who makes it to the big city of Rio but discovers life there to be more akin to a living hell than heaven. Other Brazilian writers include Carlos Drummond, Luis Fernando, Verissimo and Ziraldo.

Nightlife

Brazilians know how to party and the Cariocas are no exception. Whether it is a post-soccer beer at a beach kiosk, an evening’s entertainment at a live music venue or a cocktail at one of the growing number of trendy bars and clubs, a night out in Rio is to be savoured and enjoyed.

Beer seems to be served at all hours of the day and locals can often be seen enjoying a drink with friends at the corner bars that open out onto the streets in all parts of the city. Many bars and pubs have happy hours for people returning from work or the beach and most serve snacks and light meals. But the real action does not really start until around 2300, when the clubs open their doors for music and dancing and stay open until around 0400. Club entry fees range from around R$10 and cards are provided, onto which drink consumption is recorded – a minimum purchase of R$10 upwards is usually required. It is essential to keep hold of this card or face a forfeit charge, which can be as high as R$300 – much more than the average drinker can possibly consume. Beers are approximately R$5, while a spirit and mixer or cocktail cost upwards of R$6. The minimum legal drinking age in Brazil is 18 years.

All areas have popular bars and clubs but the beach communities of Copacabana, Ipanema and Leblon are particularly good for a night out. Although clubs do not usually operate formal dress codes, Carioca’s tend to dress up after dark and it is best to follow suit. Some venues refuse entry to people wearing shorts and T-shirts. The O Globo newspaper publishes Rio Show, an excellent entertainment listings magazine on Friday.

Bars: Outdoor drinking can be enjoyed at the kiosks that line the beach promenades or around the Lagoa. For more of an indoor experience, try Bar Luiz, Rua da Carioca 39, Centro, one of the oldest bars in Rio and now popular with the business crowd. Clipper, Rua Carlos Gois 263, and Jobi, Avenida Ataulfo de Paiva 1166, are both popular bars in Leblon, where drinkers spill out onto the sidewalk. Devotees of the Girl From Ipanema song will want to visit Garota de Ipanema, Rua Vinicius de Moraes 49, Ipanema, where the composition was conceived. The sophisticated atmosphere of Melt, Rua Rita Ludolf 47, Leblon, attracts a young and trendy crowd for imported beer and cocktails, with a lounge club upstairs, open from 2300. Those hankering for a pint of ale should visit the Lord Jim Pub, Rua Paul Redfern 63, Ipanema.

Casinos: Gambling is illegal in Brazil.

Clubs: The club scene has really taken off in Rio over the last few years, with a number of venues banging out the very best in Brazilian and international dance music. Most clubs are open Wednesday-Saturday from 2200 onwards. Bunker 94, Rua Paul Pompêia 94, Copacabana, Casa da Matriz, Rua Henrique de Novoes, Botafogo, and Six Electron, Rua das Marrecas 38, Lapa, are current favourites on the scene. Studio 54, Avenida das Amêricas 5000, Barra da Tijuca, is a techno club based on the famous 1970s New York nightclub. Help, Avenida Atlãntica 3432, Copacabana, is a huge disco that is popular with the singles crowd.

Live music: Rio has a wide choice when it comes to live music. Samba, bossa nova, chorinho, rock, MBP (Brazilian pop), classical, blues and jazz can all be enjoyed nightly. An elaborate Carnival-style samba show can be seen at Platforma 1, Rua Adalberto Ferreira 32, Leblon, daily from 2200. Favourites for bossa nova include Bar Ouvidor, Rua do Ouvidor 43, Centro, on Tuesday and Wedneday evenings, as well as Vinicius, Rua Vinicius de Moraes 39, Ipanema, daily from 2300 – in the bar and road named after Vinicius de Moraes of Girl from Ipanema fame, who penned many of his songs here with Tom Jobim. Another bossa nova hotspot is Bar do Tom, Rua Adalberto Ferreira 32, Leblon, named after bossa nova pioneer Tom Jobim, Thursday to Sunday from 2230. Esch Cafê, Rua do Rosario 107, Centro, and Rua Dias Ferreira 78, Leblon, holds regular jazz evenings. Reputedly the best jazz in Rio can be heard every Thursday 1930-2115 at the open-air venue of Parque das Ruinas, Rua Murtinho Nobre 169, Santa Teresa.


Special Events

St Sebastian, celebrations in honour of the patron saint of Rio de Janeiro, 20 Jan, throughout the city
Carnival Feb or early Mar, Sambódromo and throughout the city
Good Friday, religious ceremonies and processions, Mar or Apr, throughout the city
Rio Boat Show Apr or May, Marina da Glória
Rio de Janeiro International Book Fair May, Riocentro
June Bonfire Festival, folklore festival, Jun, throughout city
Rio de Janeiro Pride, gay festival, Jun, throughout the city
City of Rio de Janeiro Marathon Jun, throughout the city
Cinesul, festival of Latin American cinema, Jun/Jul, throughout the city
Anima Mundi, animation festival , Jul, throughout the city
Our Lady of Copacabana Week, religious ceremonies, cultural events and candlelit procession, Aug, Copacabana
Independence Week, processions and ceremonies, 1-7 Sep, throughout the city
Casa Cor Rio, home show, Sept, throughout the city
Festival do Rio BR, film festival , Sep–Oct, throughout the city
Naval Academy Regata, sailing event, Oct, Guanabara Bay
Our Lady Aparecida, religious holiday, 12 Oct, throughout the city
Iemanjá, religious ceremony and offerings to the sea, 31 Dec, Copacabana, Ipanema and Leblon beaches Reveillon, outdoor concerts, parties and fireworks, 31 Dec, Copacabana beach and seafront

Sport

Football is a national obsession in Brazil – even more so nowadays, following the national team’s fifth World Cup win in 2002. It takes priority over food, politics and religion. Introduced by Scottish railway engineers in the 1890s, the sport soared in popularity and for youngsters living in the favelas, football could prove to be their passport to better lives.

Pelê, arguably the greatest player of all time, Rivaldo and Ronaldo are just some of the local heroes.

In Rio, the most important teams are Flamengo, Vasco, Fluminense and Botafogo. In the Brazilian Football Confederation (CBF) First Division, Fluminense was making the city most proud, standing at tenth in 2002. Vasco and Flamengo were not far behind at 15th and 17th respectively, while Botafogo brought up the rear, straggling at the bottom of the league at 25th. The teams and the Brazilian national side play their matches at Maracanä Stadium, Rua Prof. Eurico Rabelo, in Maracanä, which are raucous and entertaining affairs. Enthusiastic crowds, drums, flags and endless ticker tape accompany the skill and excitement of the footballers on the pitch.

Tickets cost around R$10 for stand seats, with the price rising for Championship and International fixtures. These are available at the gates on match days. Confederaèäo Brasileira de Futebol (CBF), Rua da Alfãndega 70, Centro (tel: (21) 32216100), provides information on Rio’s match schedules.

With its vast beaches, Rio is ideal for beach and watersports and the citizens fully exploit the natural resources. Football, beach volley and foot volley are constantly taking place and there is a plethora of tournaments and championships. Hiking, fishing, diving, boating, rowing, bodyboarding, surfing and windsurfing are also popular and there also is ample opportunity to cycle, rollerblade and jog.

Fitness centres: Fitness is an obsession in Rio. As well as exercise stations on the beaches and around the Lagoa, there are indoor gyms on almost every street, many of which are open to non-members. Of the exclusive clubs, Estaèaô do Corpo Health Club and Spa, Avenida Borges de Medeiros 1426, Lagoa (tel: (21) 2219 3131), is one of the best. Access to its gym, dance studio, spinning centre, running track, soccer pitch, swimming pool and sauna are available at rates of R$40 per day or R$150 a week.

Golf: Players can test their handicap at three local clubs. The first, Gâvea Golf Club, Estrada da Gâvea 800, Säo Conrado (tel: (21) 3322 4141), offers a field of 18 holes for R$250 basic green fees. The second, Itanhangâ Golf Club, Estrada da Barra 2005, Barra da Tijuca (tel: (21) 2494 2507), is a 27-hole course that is only open to members. The third, the Golden Green Golf Club, Avenida Canal de Marapendi 2901, Barra da Tijuca (tel: (21) 2434 0696), is a golf clinic with three-par, six-hole course open to outside players for R$300 basic fees. Further information is available online.

Hang-gliding and paragliding: A tandem flight from one of Rio’s steep mountains is an increasingly popular activity with tourists. There are many pilots and companies, including Fernando Rocha (tel: (21) 2424 3841), Fly With Me (tel: (21) 25225586), Superfly (tel: (21) 3322 2286) and Rio by Jeep (tel: (21) 9693 8800 or 2575 8626).

Tennis: Public tennis courts are situated around the Lagoa. Rio Sport Center has two locations with tennis courts, at Avenida Ayrton Senna 2541, Barra da Tijuca (tel: (21) 3325 6644), and Rua Visconde de Pirajâ 161, Ipanema (tel: (21) 2267 4192).